That's kind of what I was trying to check by shooting the jug. It would be a pain for me to pack my gear and drive the 18 miles to the range, pay my $3, take one shot and drive back home several days in a row.

I need to build a bench, out on that power line but there is only room for 50 yard shooting and 150-200 yard shooting, depending on where on the flat the bench is. There is a huge gully in between.

R H I have read that thread. I had a Montana .308 and it just flat would not shoot. It would string groups in a line 3" at 100 yards. I actually sold it to the guy that started that thread. Told him it wouldn't shoot worth a flip and what it was doing and he said no problem he could make it a tack driver in about 10 minutes. And he did.
I'm putting a Swaro Z-3 3-9x36 on mine. It weighs right about 6lbs even with scope and rings.

Did you use Talley Lightweights? I used Warne bases and Burris Signature Zee rings because I didn't want to buy a kit to lap the Talleys. I've seen some reports of the Talleys being off significantly. Some so much that the scope wouldn't fit after lapping. I've also seen some terrible ring marks made with the Lightweights. Just wondering about your experience with them.

Have to becareful with Talleys for sure. Most people dont know how to lap rings correctly. I have heard the same on Talleys though. Years ago they were great rings. TPS rings are what i run on my non-custom rifles . They are a sister company of Seeking i think. They are really gun rings. 3 aets i have put on and None have needed lapping. Warne has good rings too, that are quick disconect. I have a pair of those on an AR-15, they seam fine as well.I have about 4 pairs of Talleys rings on rifles in the safe, unfortuanatly they were from the late 90s so my info may not help you.

If you're still trying to get consistently better groups, you might want to consider one of these .

This gun is not made for shooting tight groups. The cold bore shot should be on every time though.

I hear ya about the cold bore and don't wanta sound like a dick. I give 1K plus for a rifle, I don't care if it weighs 2 lbs it better shoot and I better not have to spend more $ or work on it get it to. The folks at Kimber should have solved these problems long ago IMO. I don't know why Kimber hasn't been swamped with returned rifles for accurizing.

+1

A 1K rifle should shoot.

They are not swamped because most of them shoot very well, and a large percentage of those that don't shoot well is simply because people can't shoot a light rifle. Weight does matter. That's why target rifles weigh 10-12 lbs. 2 lbs lighter than a light weight rifle is a lot. $1000 is chicken feed when we are talking light weight custom rifles.

The Kimber is a very nice package for the money. Some do need a skim bedding but big deal. I own 2 CZ rimfires. Both needed trigger work because they felt like 10 miles of bumpy road out of the box. I fixed them both very easily. They are a bargain compared to an Anschutz with a great trigger out of the box. The Kimber is still a bargain and less than 1/3 of what a custom super light rifle costs. If all I cared about was small groups, I would have bought a 12 lb target rifle.

So far with a torque change and ammo change, I have shot one group around 1/2" and one group 1.5" at 100 yards and killed two 7" targets with two cold bore shots from a prone field position propped on a log at 150-175 yards. So that's less than a 3.5" group from a field position at 150-175 yards. That will kill any deer I have ever shot at in 20 years.

Yes, I did shoot a couple bad groups but I posted every group which very few people do. Most selectively forget the bad groups and remember the tiny ones. 9 out of 10 people who say their gun always shoots 3/4- 1/2" groups all day long have simply forgot the bad groups or excused them as shooter error.

Kimber did have a bad run of barrels and some QC issues a few years ago which has haunted them for a long time. My new rifle had none of the usual things wrong that need tweeking. My mag box was perfectly floated. My front action screw was perfect length. My barrel crown is perfect. No feeding problems. All in all I couldn't be happier. I may bed the rifle or I may not need to. I haven't really shot it enough yet to tell but the accuracy potential is there. This is one of the best 3 shot 100 yards groups I have ever shot with anything. that center circle is smaller than a dime and this whole group will cover with a dime.

Now that kind of group will work . I'm sort of new to this light weight rifle game, why is a light weight rifle harder to shoot? I got close to buying a Montana BTW but went for a 75 Finnlight, which is not hardly as light but has a 20" barrel.

When I was on the bags, every small muscle movement was translated into the rifle. At one point I had some kind of weird muscle spasm going on in my shoulder. I could see in the scope , the reticle dancing around the 2" red square in the center. I tried to work through it on a couple targets and didn't get very good results. On other targets, where I could tell I had a much more solid hold, I did much better.

Also I found it important to hold the front down to counter muzzle jump. I had heard other Kimber shooters suggest this but I always thought the bullet had left the barrel before any muzzle jump occurred. Possibly the muzzle holding just helped establish a steadier hold.

My Kimber is 5lbs. 2 OZ bare and about 6 lbs. all up. That's about 2 lbs. lighter than most rifles and 1.5 lighter than even light weight rifles. I don't know why I wanted one. I won't be climbing any mountains, but I think it will be very pleasant to carry when I go hog hunting in the Bankhead. The Kimber has a 22" barrel.

I have a 75 Finnlight. I have shot some great groups with it but also shot some just as bad as I have shot with this Kimber, so the verdict is still out as to if my Kimber needs bedding or not. My Finnlight is a pig compared to this Kimber.

The lightest rifles I've fired would be A-bolt micro, Tikka and the Finnlight I haven't noticed any difference, I do wrap my index finger over the barrel when I shoot off bags. The Finnlight is really not very light,least not as light as your Montana, I can live with the weight of it, however I love the 20" barrel. Swings great in the thickets.

I got my hand slapped one time for doing that by a man who can sure enough shoot who was trying to teach me some stuff about shooting. He says you can hold down on the forearm all you want to, but never under any circumstances allow anything to touch a floated barrel.
I've seen pictures of the groups you put on here tho so I guess it didn't hurt nothin too bad.
I picked up a Forbes rifle the other day. 5 lbs like a Kimber but shoots 3/4" groups just like those sako's. Barrel is 21" instead of 20 but otherwise it's absolutely perfect.

The Forbes was something I thought about but I hate that huge safety slot in the stock and I saw one recently that had absolutely horrible bedding and wouldn't even extract. NIB gun that would not function. I guess all companies put out a few dogs. Glad you got a Forbes you are enjoying.

I don't put it way out and really just lay it on top. I think I'll keep doing it, if not laying a finger on top made the "Bush Hog" shoot any better I couldn't stand it.