I put out my MB550's and used the polyfil under the pan. The fill was plump but fit snugly under the pan. I covered with dirt. The next day had a decent rain. Noticed that the traps were all covered in dirt but the polyfill was partially on top of the dirt. This happened at probably 3 out of 6 traps. Didn't reset since ground was wet and was able to still get a coyote and coon. Have you had this happen? Did I do something wrong? Haven't tried screen yet, thought I would start with the polyfil first. Thanks for any input.

I use screen - hav not done poly fill yet - my sets were wet this morn - put out a little sent

I also caught my first dog - my traps are about 400-500 yards from a black neighborhood- but I almost never see dogs - few times in camera a year maybe in road. Was not as bad as I thought - dog was a young pit bull and he was scared - I let him loose and had to shew him a way - glad it was not a mean dog and glad It was not hurt

Glad you got a friendly dog! Hopefully you won't trap a skunk.

I didn't realize how out of shape I am. I'm off for a week to hunt and running 4 330 Conibears and two TS-85's. Setting them and walking in waist deep water has kicked my ass over the last two days.

I get give out just setting a hand full of dukes coyote traps - i
out a shape too
I got a cat uncovering my traps daily - killin me - I need to double set cat like Polwol explained earlier in thread - not grounding my traps good early prob screwed me w cat

Deer are really curious about fresh dirt and all the scents. Their feet are tapered enough that they pull out as soon as they hit the end of the chain though.

I love this thread. Im not a trapper and would have no idea how to start, but i love reading the stories and seeing the pics. Keep em coming

If theyre uncovering your traps they either smell where you handled it or got bait on it or didnt bed it right...it happens to the best of us

Thanks for that tip - it’s a cat - see her tracks - bet I got bait on gloves - prob need 2 sets of gloves

2 more coons last night in my dirt hole sets. I like eliminating coons but prefer not to catch in my dirt hole sets!! Guess it goes with the territory, eventually I will decrease the coon numbers and maybe the sets will have a little more time to lure a coyote, bobcat or fox. Coyotes were loud the other night by the house.

Always use gloves for setting and different gloves for baiting

Thanks - I actually started that about 3 days ago from video I saw - I never put the uncovering traps together though until u said something - finally caught another coyote today - my second - all my catches of cat and yote hav been on same trap - had 2 get away and now 3 catches - trap is 80 yards from intersection- my trap at intersection only caught a pit bull - appreciate your help. Coyote today only had 3/4 of inch of paw in trap. I took one quick pic and shot him quickly

Congrats!!

Thanks

Another coyote caught last night. Dirt hole set with MB550. using RK Predator plus on sheep's wool for bait and red fox urine and Hawbaker Wildcat#1 for lure. This coyote was caught in same location as my first coyote.

Question for the experienced trappers on here:

I have caught two coyotes and they have both been caught on the hind foot not the front paw. I am putting my dirt hole against a small backing so they must approach from the front to see in the hole. Trap is set slightly to right of hole with center approximately 9 inches below the hole. Dog side of trap is closest to hole.

Am I doing something wrong with setup to be catching the back leg?

Thanks for any input.

More trapping tips...

Step 1. Identify coyote sign or paths of travel
a) Coyote scat usually has hair in it, rabbit or other. It’s K9 and about the size of what a beagle would leave.
b) Coyote footprints are K9, with a 3-point pad with 2 toes directly over the top of it and 1 toe to each side of the tightly spaced inner toes.
c) Paths that coyotes frequent are road junctions, where 2 or more roads meet. The more roads that converge the better. Whereas deer are known to stick to the inside corners of fields, coyotes stick to the outside points. If there is a peninsula of woods that reaches out into a field, a coyote can more quickly move through the field and browse that point. Coyotes are constantly focused on covering ground. Gates, roads, pass-throughs, or points of woods that reach out into fields are excellent trap setting locations. Coyotes travel in a similar fashion to the way water flows, they follow the paths of least resistance. Coyotes enjoy ridges to look down from atop on deer and other small game.

Step 2. Identify the location for the trap.
a) A natural ‘V’ shape in the terrain will make the coyote funnel to the bait. When you can control where they coyote is stepping, there’s a much higher likelihood of him stepping on your trap pan.
b) Flat sets are used when there aren’t any natural contours available to funnel the animal. A log with some urine on it can be placed out into the open with a trap 3”-12” away, in the walking path of a passing coyote.
c) Backing will keep the coyote approaching the bait from the direction you choose. Backing, found in nature, can be made of a large tuft of grass either growing or gathered up, a dead limb/log, a rock that’s too big to be moved by the coyote, or any structure that has been sitting for a while.

Step 3. Digging the trap bed
a) The tools needed include a hammer, sod cutter, bucket of peat moss (2-3 gal), and dirt sifter
1. Lay the trap where it will sit back from the bait 9” and either 3” to the left or 3” to the right, a pinky to thumb measurement works for this, then estimate 3” to one side or the other. Traps can be placed on each side, then another trap 18” back if gang setting for ‘trap smart’ coyotes.
2. Visualize the footprint of the trap. Take the sod cutter, a sod buster hammer or digging trowel, and removed enough dirt so that the trap can lay in the trap bed and be at or just below the grade of the dirt around the trap bed.
3. Pack the dirt in the trap bed with the hammer so that the trap bed is firm. This will prevent the trap from moving if the coyote steps on the jaws of the trap and not the trap pan.
4. In cases where heavy rain or freezing ground is expected, make a small void under the trap where water can collect. This will allow the pan to be up out of the ice or water. Be sure to leave a lip around the void where the trap jaws can rest to keep the trap from rocking.
5. The depth of the shelf for the levers to rest on will determine how far into the trap bed that the jaws will sink.
6. Take the dirt from the trap bed that was dug out and place it in a dirt sifter. This will be used to shake over peat moss and/or poly fill to blend the trap with the natural surroundings.

Step 4. Set an anchor in the ground
a) The tools needed include a cable stake and anchor driver or a double rebar bracket and 2 x 24” lengths of rebar, a mini sledge, and a long handled sledge for dry ground (optional)
1. A cable stake driver needs the channel for the anchor to be cleaned prior to attaching it and driving it in the ground. Pound the stake into the ground so that it sticks up less than 3”. For double rebar stakes, hammer them in a criss-crossing (X pattern) 45 degree angle.
2. Yank the stake puller out of the ground. Hard ground may require a long handled sledge be wedged under the stake driver to pry it up with leverage. Muddy ground may require hammering the stake in another time as it could pull out with the driver, same as it went in.

Step 5. Attach a quicklink, 3/16”-5/16” from the trap to the anchor
a) Crank down on the quicklink once it’s tightened to prevent easy theft of the trap, by animal or human.
b) Pull on the anchor to set it horizontally deep within the ground. The coyote may take off with the trap, cable stake, and anchor if it isn’t set and the ground is really muddy.

Step 6. Bed the trap
a) Set the trap, if it wasn’t already set, and place it down in the trap bed
b) Use 2-3 scoops of peat moss to mound on the trap pan
c) Smear the mound out around the jaws of the trap
d) Put your fingers in the levers and pull up the trap to allow the peat moss to get under the trap jaws
e) Mash the trap down in the trap bed and repeat the process of mounding peat moss and pressing the jaws into the trap bed until the trap doesn’t rock when one side is pressed on
f) Alternate method is to cover the trap with short grass clippings enough to camouflage the jaws, levers, and pan
g) Alternate bedding material to peat moss is poly fill (pillow or quilt fluff) under the trap pan to keep dirt from resting under the pan and preventing downward travel of the pan
h) Sift dirt taken from the hole made for the trap bed over the trap. Be sure not to get any dirt clods or rocks inside the jaws of the trap. Any hard material that gets hung in the levers or jaws can prevent the trap from closing fully.

Step 7. Make a bait source
a) Baited sets include the dirt hole (most common), pipe dream, tire, T-bone, and walk through
1. The dirt hole set is a hole 12”-18” deep at a 45 degree angle, dug away from the direction of your trap. The angle of the hole forces the coyote to stand where your trap is to look down into it. The depth of the hole is important because it will dictate how long the coyote will be trying to reach the bait in the bottom of the hole. The longer that you can keep a coyote working your set, the better your odds are at catching it. Dirt holes can flood in swampy areas, requiring rebaiting after heavy downpours.
2. The pipe dream set is a pipe at a 45 degree angle, leaning away from your trap. You may want to hammer the 8”-10” long section of Schedule 40 PVC before setting your trap. The pounding on the ground only 9” away from your trap may make the trap snap shut. The pipe has a hole for drainage drilled 3” from the top on the side closest to the ground. This hole lets rain come out and it helps vent the smell of bait out into the air around the trap. This set is very rain and ice resistant, coupled with a void under the trap and grass clippings over the trap.
3. The tire set is a tire laid around a trap. With the trap in the middle the coyote has to step into it to see the bait placed in the tire. This is a good rain proof set because the bait won’t get washed out like it can in a dirt hole.
4. The T-bone can be a box turtle shell, cow vertebra, or any bone that might be found in nature. The white color makes for great eye appeal. By smearing lure on the T-bone, or placing it inside of the box turtle shell, the goal is to make the coyote spend time investigating the attractant. The bone or shell needs to have a large spike driven through it to prevent a coyote from carrying it off and chewing on it. You may have to drill a hole in a turtle shell, most cow bones have natural holes to drive a spike through.
5. The walk through set is a dirt hole set with the bait in a dirt hole with backing placed behind it on one side and the lure placed in a smaller hole, made by the anchor driver, on the other side. The idea is to arouse curiosity in a coyote to get him to walk between your bait and lure. This is a flat set.
b) Urine Post sets
1. A urine post is any piece of wood that absorbs urine placed nearby a trap. It is a flat set because it looks the same as the ground around it. The coyote instinctively want to leave its scent on top of other coyote, fox, or bobcat urine. Gland lures from predators work as well. During deer season, the smell of coyote or bobcat urine may frighten away deer. This is when fox urine is the go-to choice. Backing for urine posts can be the corner of fenced area or logs placed at road junctions. If you have backing, it puts the coyote on the side of the set where your trap will be waiting.
a) A urine post set can be made by hammering a skinny limb, 2 x 4, or 1 x 1 into the ground.
b) Urine post sets can be made by placing some coyote scat and spraying it with gland lure or urine
c) Urine posts can be made on the edge of a large log

Step 8. Camouflage the area and make the set look natural
a) While you can place clods of dirt or rocks adjacent to the side of the set that the trap is on, don’t work too hard to funnel a coyote. They’re extremely skittish and can easily get frightened by an area that doesn’t look natural. If the smallest thing is out of place, they’ll take a hike.
b) Use step sticks to keep the coyote funneled toward the ‘V’ of the set location, where the narrow portion is your bait. If the coyote can run circles around your trap set, he’s taking more steps that aren’t in the general area of your trap. If his nerves are focusing his movement toward your bait, then there’s a much greater chance that he’ll wind up on your trap pan.

Step 9. Let the trap hunt
a) Traps hunt 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
b) Control any interference with the trap set by limiting human scent around the set
c) Check to be sure the traps aren’t sprung after heavy rains because a sprung trap could educate a coyote. Trap smart coyotes are nearly impossible to catch.

Step 10. Check traps daily
a) State law requires 24-hour trap checks. Try not to trap out on a busy road where the anti-trappers will get fuel for their squawking about how cruel it is trap animals. Dispose of the carcass where people won’t think there’s a serial domestic dog killer stacking victims. Within 4-6 months, nature does the job of recycling the coyote back into the habitat.
b) You don’t need a trapping license to trap your own property or to nuisance trap. The license allows you to sell fur. Fur sales are down drastically, making skinning, fleshing, and drying of hides a hobby and no longer a profession for southern trappers. Southern furs are much smaller and less full than those from wide open ranges and mountainous regions. US sentiment for fur trapping is mostly negative nowadays. And, world powers are battling recession, making their (China and Russia) fur purchases scarce.
c) State law requires a catch pole to release non-target critters. If it’s your property, then all critters may be target animals. I have caught 3 domestic dogs over the past year, they eventually learn to avoid strange smells in trap sets.
d) Bury or burn coyotes with mange. Mange is an awful disease that makes animal’s hair fall out and they freeze and/or starve to death. It can be passed by carcasses. Coyotes can get rubbed on their back, mange is more noticeable as large patches of hair will be missing.

Step 11. Dispatch, avoid entering the catch circle
a) A bat is the simplest tool to use to dispatch with, it is over in a second. One or more strikes directly on top of the head will be lights-out. An axe handle also keeps you at a safe distance. A strike or 2 to the throat to collapse the wind pipe can insure that you don’t get bitten. A boot on the lungs for a minute, to force all air out and none back in can prevent the coyote from recovering from dispatch.
b) Ammo is in short supply, but during normal times a 22 short is the most preferred method by some trappers. A shot through the chest, just behind the armpit will stop the pump station and result in minimal bleeding.
c) A luggage scale is helpful in weighing catches
d) Once dispatched, you can determine the sex of the coyote

Step 12. Trapper’s Log
a) A log book, or app is good to keep track of lures and baits used, set types, catches, and trap set locations. Analyzing data over time can identify proven techniques that work for your area.

Step 13. Trapper advocacy and political activism
a) Trapping is a dwindling skill that deserves to live on. Pass on old equipment, mentor youth or budding trappers when possible. Our country owes a great debt to the hardworking trappers that settled these once wild lands. If anyone questions your authority to trap predators, let them know Our Creator is our authority. Genesis 1:26 “Then God said, “Let us make man in our image, after our likeness. And let them have dominion over the fish of the sea and over the birds of the heavens and over the livestock and over all the earth and over every creeping thing that creeps on the earth.””
b) Join your state trapper’s association, www.ATPCA.org. Without support for trapper's rights, the anti's will eliminate trapping. Start local and expand from there in supporting trapper's rights.
c) If inclined, join the Nat’l Trapper’s Association, www.NationalTrappers.com

I needed that post bad.^^^^^^

U can Read back up the thread some Ridge - he has posted lot of good stuff from baits - type traps etc - u can google how to also

Pollwoll - do u like the tire set - u ever use it? If they not skiddish from tire - I like the sound of it

Prob stupid question - where good place to get small tire? Do u use particular size? Do u stake the tire in the ground or do the coyotes ever try to move tire?

Great stuff Pollwoll!!

Any tire shop will gladly oblige you if you ask them for a take off, bald tire. They toss them out or have recyclers come gather them all up. Clem Tire in Madison gave me 2 bald compact car tires. Any size will do, I believe a 14" may give the coyote less area to avoid the trap pan. Any size between 14" and 18" rimmed tires should work well.

I like the tire set. It's junky looking, so I don't use it much as the property I trap is along a main road. Once a heavy rain soaks the inside of the tire, it stinks something awful. Disposing of the tire can be a pain after the inside of it has been growing algae and had coyote bait in it. But tire sets are somewhat rain proof, unless it rains sideways. The bait is protected in the tire and can last a long time.

There's no need to nail the tire down. The coyote won't move the tire until it tries getting out of the trap. Even then, the tire is too cumbersome for the coyote to do much with it.

A few good buddies have asked me for advice, so I've tried writing up some help for them. The pages of trapping magazines have better advice, but to get started the basics never really change. You learn volumes by making mistakes, like letting dirt get under your pan or forgetting to crank down on a quicklink and losing a trap. The harder lessons stick out more in your mind on the next go 'round. Tight chains!