I plan on starting back reloading, I loaded .270 and 30-06 back in the 70's and 80's. Used a pacific 007 press and rcbs dies. Hunted up my stuff and found the following, stuck cases in both die sets and a broke spring clip on the top of the ram. I guess its purpose is to hold the shell holder?

Got the stuck cases out today, a real pain. Where or what can I get for the broke spring clip part?

The only powders I ever used were imr 4350 and 4831, one or both of them was a stick powder and I didn't like throwing charges with it, felt like it was cutting the sticks. Always afraid the load would be off so I wound up weighing almost every load.

Also bought a lock and load ap several years ago, will be trying to use it some but plan on staying with the pacific at least for a while. Have come up with a few die sets for handguns also, looking to get a few more. Looking through my manual, hornady, 3rd edition, I am thinking maybe unique and maybe H110 powders should cover most of my handgun calibers.

As I slowly get started, I'm a gonna sling a lot of questions at ya'll. In the meantime, anything you want to tell me, I'm all ears. Thanks.

Get the 10th edition Hornady manual. Call Hornady for Pacific parts they may have it. What handgun calibers?

What, are you saying my manual is old or something? Thanks, I'll get a newer one. .38/.357, 9mm, .45 acp, .44 spl/mag, .30 carbine, maybe a few others later on.

4350 and 4831 are as good as it gets for the 270 and 30-06. I weigh all of my charges also, but cutting powder isn't the reason. Stick powders are just not as consistent in a powder measure. Truth is, an couple of tenths of a grain either way really doesn't make a difference in accuracy at typical hunting ranges. If you're trying to shoot long range, you can have vertical dispersion due to velocity variations.

Glad you decided to start again. Be safe, and ask questions if you aren't sure about something. I'm a big fan of the Sierra loading guide, and they just came out with a new edition.

Also, get a chronograph. 👍

Unique H110 are fine.I'd look into 231 /HP38 and Accurate#2)5 for 9 and .45 acp. And don't stress shooting the chonograph I'll admit to doing it...maybe more than once.

A chronograph would be in the distant future, as well as long range shooting. Not something I'd want to jump into anytime soon.

I do have an interest in molds and a pot and casting my own. I didn't know about lubing, sizing and gas checks until lately. Still dont know much about them.

Another thing I am trying to get straight is factory or roll crimps. Are they used only for revolvers? Do some seating/crimping dies also do the factory or roll crimps?

When you got those stuck cases out of the dies did you disassemble the dies and clean them ? I'd highly recommend it or ou may find yourself with another stuck case

Get some RL26 for that 270 Win.

I wouldn't waste my money on a loading book. Most all load data is free online nowadays.

By the time I got the cases out I had them disassembled, they looked rough. Haven't tried cleaning them up yet. How do you work on the inside of a die? 0000 steel wool wrapped around a drill bit? And I guess a brass brush on the stem and expander ball?

I'm a reader and prefer a hard copy of a book. I've already got one ordered and not at a bad price.

Edit, and thanks, I'll look into the RL26 powder.

Qtip and outers bore cleaner for inside of dies.

Thanks, I'll give this or something similar a try. Shotgun bore mop ought to work good. Spray brake parts cleaner may work, I have many cans of that, then follow up with a good cleaner.

I emailed Hornady over the weekend about the broken spring, they have a new shell holder detent spring on the way to me. Outstanding customer support! And did I mention at no charge?

You’re close. Wrap 0000 wool around a bore brush of comparable size to the die and use a good lube and a drill . I would just clean the expander ball with solvent/lubricant and a cloth