QAD Ld or the Mathews qad? Is there. 40 dollar difference on a Reezen.

Basically the same rest. The Mathews version is actually a HTX. You can’t adjust the cord length at the rest on the LD. The HTX has the curved containment bar for more vane clearance which you really don’t need.

I was just told one falls maybe a hair faster than the other since some mechanics internally are a little bit different. I knew he’s full of it. I’m going ld then. Thanks.

Yep, they’re full of it.

Man I had one of the Mathews edition QAD rests on my Chill X, I really didn't trust it. I had it not drop away on several occasions, I moved on to something else. Just my experience, Robinhedd

You must had an issue with the cord. I’ve only had 2 issues with one not dropping correctly. One was because I had the cord attached too far up the buss cable. The other was due to the knot I use to prevent it from slipping back through the buss cable not being tight enough. The knot tightened up which lengthened the cord preventing the rest from reaching the full up position at full draw. I’ve been using the Ultra Rest ever since they came out.

The first one I had messed up after a month. It was failing to drop. Turned out to be something internal. QAD replaced it and the replacement has not messed up once in almost 9 years. And I have shot it a lot.

Again anyone with knowledge. This is the top wheel of my Reezen. Should the string be straight coming off the wheel. May not be called a wheel but something else?? As you can see, it is off centered just a little. I would think this would cause excessive wear on serving right there. It is caused from looks like the other side of the wheel is pulled down by the cables. Not sure but just looking from my standpoint. Should I take it back to show the guy that installed everything?

Your good Countryjwh, all Mathews single cam bows have a little cam lean due to the cables being pulled to one side. Your fine, take that bow out & stack the deer up.

There’s only one true way to check the buss cable yoke timing on a solo cam and it’s at full draw. Nock an arrow, draw the bow and anchor. Have someone stand behind you to see if the string is coming off the idler wheel straight. If it’s coming off to the right, the left yoke needs to be shortened. If it’s coming off to the left, the right yoke needs to be shortened.

Judging by the pic, I’m willing to bet twists need to be added to the left yoke (notice, it’s a LH bow Robinhedd).But it needs to be checked at full draw. It won’t cause serving wear, but it will give you fits trying to tune it if it’s off very much, especially if you shoot fixed heads.

Would this affect accuracy at all with field tips?

Depends on how bad it is off.

Left side definantlly looks short

Or right side could be long. Need to measure/check the axle to axle length to see which side is closer to spec.
Also may need to check lean on your bottom cam. Not at rest but while drawn.
At full draw have someone lay an arrow shaft on flat side of your bottom cam and see if it sits/points parallel to bow string. If not the cam angle as well as the idler wheel angle my need addressing.

My bow shop is a joke. Just saying.