Buy DNZ and no lapping necessary.

BINGO! I've got DNZ Game Reapers on almost all of my scoped guns. Can't beat 'em.

I bought all this stuff at different times. If you shop around you can find a good deal on a combo. I want my reticles leveled to the receiver. Most of the time you take it somewhere they charge you to eyeball it. I enjoy mounting my own scopes. You mount a few new ones or adjust a few old ones and you've paid for it. Plus, you'll always have the tools.

Wheeler

Wheeler 2

BINGO! I've got DNZ Game Reapers on almost all of my scoped guns. Can't beat 'em.

Even they have lemons. I purchased one for my Rem700 police, and it's off quite a bit....

I'll add that I have only lapped one set of rings and it made quite a mess. It's usually not necessary. If I find that I've got some rings out of alignment I'll probably return them next time.

Well in this case, you return it, you don't fix it.

Talking about gun store lackeys... I bought a Steyr Pro Hunter at a well known Mobile Gun store and asked the salesperson who had years of experience put the one piece Leupold base on for me. MISTAKE - I watched him tighten the base screws and I could tell he was faking the torque he was putting on one of the screws. He walked away for a minute and I checked it and it was stripped. Called his hand on it and made them swap the rifle for a new one.

I like Burris Signature series rings with the plastic inserts that protect the scope tube and can be used to make gross corrections in elevation and windage with the proper inserts. Lapping is not needed because you can never 'bind' the tube.....

http://www.burrisoptics.com/signature-rings

Pretty much all I use is Burris Signature here as well. Weaver/Picatinny Style and only because that with the correct base this eliminates all issues with scope position relative to the ring spacing and eye relief.

Not saying they are better but this is the system I use across about all my guns and has always worked well. In particular with swapping scopes around on rifles, etc. So I try and run a lot of the same hardware.

I prefer them too unless I'm going light, and then it's Talley Lightweights.I also use the Sako Optilock Ringmounts which have the insert just like the Burris Signatures. I actually had my first rings with inserts with the Sako ringmounts and liked them so much I started using the Burris rings.

I'm pretty anal about mounting my scopes. First I optically center my reticle by turning the windage and elevation one direction until it stops then counting the clicks back around until it stops again. Then dividing by two and counting back in that many clicks.

I'm pretty anal about mounting my scopes. First I optically center my reticle by turning the windage and elevation one direction until it stops then counting the clicks back around until it stops again. Then dividing by two and counting back in that many clicks. I then attach my bases and properly torque with a wheeler torque driver. Then attach my Burris Signature rings (I always grease the front ring where it cams into the base)with the plastic inserts with no correction, place the scope in the rings and boresight. If much correction is needed I do it with the ring plastic inserts (+5/-5, etc.), check and adjust the reticle for canting and adjust eye relief, torque the screws then shoot for final adjustment using the scope internal adjustments. Be sure to purchase the additional Burris adjustment plastic insert kit.

For Leupold rings I have a 1" solid aluminum round bar about 24" long I use to key in the front ring and align the frt ring with the barrel. This is key for the Leupold rings.

You can also easily center your reticle by placing the objective end against a mirror and adjusting until both images of the reticle are aligned.

Thanks R_H_Clark, the mirror trick works great.

level rifle, a plumb bob, set eye relief, good to go.