What would yall recommend to be a good tractor for small farm chores? I need it to be able to lift heavy round bales, as well as the other typical stuff, like bushhog, boxblade and front end load. Will anything under 50hp lift those big bales?

I'm in market for same.

40-50hp, 4wd with loader

Currently looking at all brands

Ha! now that's a deal!

For someone that knows essentially nothing about tractors what would something like JBC described go for? $35K?

Ive got a '14 JD 4105. Great tractor for the size. Was 28k ($330/month) but it included a front loader, bushhog and box blade... its handy on 20 acres and i mow a few neighbors properties for hunting permission

My tractor is 4x4 with the hydrostatic trans.. got 130 hours on it and its been trouble free

Ah hell naw!!! That size tractor Kubota or John Deere while also considering a Mahindra. With a FEL 4x4 a must. You're not trying to make a living with it a Kubota M series or John Deere E series. These base tractors probably gone run around $13,000 to $14,000. Add about $4500-$5000 for FEL and about $4500-5000 for MFWD. Cab about another $6000. Then other accessories like more hydraulics will vary.

Also, they measure HP different. A Kubota 50 HP and a Deere 50 HP is not the same.

Wow significantly less than I thought.

buddy just bought a new kubota yesterday ... MX4800 gear tractor, 4x4 with FEL, QT bucket.. $26,900 or $440 a month with their insurance.

Deere told him they would be $3k less for the same size and HP tractor but he wanted orange.

we looked at both brands and settled on JD because they gave a better deal

Another thing to consider when looking at small tractors is some have aluminum castings vs iron. Aluminum is cheaper, but it weighs less and usually means the tractor will not pull as good and it could be argued that it isn't as strong.

Yes, there is a big weight difference within each make of tractors. For example a john Deere E series weighs a lot less than the John Deere M series in the same size tractor. Reflects in price also. If someone will be hauling the tractor on a trailer that is something to consider. I have been watching the lighter E series for durability issues but seems to be performing well. Thinking of buying one myself.

May have to fill your rear tires for better traction and counter weight

I've got JD e series 4310 and have had some issues. Motor has been great, but other issues (4x4 issues, rear wheel seal hydraulic leaks,electrical, etc..) My next one will probably be about a 50 horse Kubota. I've seen several lightly used M series 4x4 Kubotas with FEL in the mid twenty range.

Irby Tractors seem to keep a decent supply of used ones for a fair price.

We've got the Kubota M7040 in 4wd and it pulls an 8 foot bushhog. It's a beast.

Cant to wrong with a 5000 series deere

I sold my 07, Kubota m7040 4wd with loader with 1200 hrs a couple years ago for 22,500. I bought it new for $31k. That included a set of forks and a canopy. Great tractor, just a little light for heavy work. Word of advice, Get the biggest one you think you'll need and can still trailer it.

What is FEL?

And is a hydrostatic trans a must??

Front End Loader

I have a Mahindra 4025 with loader bucket , hay fork bush hog it is 4x4 manual shift and does what I need. Hydrolics is strong enough to handle big rolls. 3 yrs no trouble

Better look at the Mahindra. I just bought a 41HP 2WD basic tractor only for 1/2 of what JD was asking for theirs.

I was leary of it at first but its nice, especially moving alot gravel or mowing in tight places

Tractors are green.
Anything else is just make believe.

X2

Me too. Great tractor

If you can, try to get a tractor without the new emissions systems. This may mean purchasing a tractor that's a few years old. It's just one more thing to go wrong.

2004 Kubota L3430 with 459 hours on it when I bought it last July. None of that emissions crap and barely broken in.

I have a JD 5085E, the new tractors are a pain in the ass. Too many codes and sensors. Burns me up when a guy shows up with a laptop, to fix the thing. No way to turn a wrench on one.

I have a 5075e at the farm and it's all sorts of gadgets on it that I can't even identify. I bought a 26 HP Yanmar from Fredrick's in Decatur to use at my house. The tractor is a 1979 model that spent it's first life in a rice paddy in Japan. Fredrick's imports them and completely rebuilds them, essentially making it a new tractor.

But it's still 1979 technology and everything is simple on it - no emissions junk and no computers. And they cost about half of a new one. You might wanna check them out.

The motor in my JD is actually a yanmar diesel

I'll do that! Thanks

2 things to remember Green and Orange paint cost extra.

If you are serious about moving bales, feeding and stacking new tractors don't weight what the old ones do and some of the cheap in price ones are aluminum and about all of them no matter what color paint are made overseas. I'd start with looking about a 75hp model. I have a lot of seat time on a M7040 moving 5x6 bales and I wouldn't want anything less if I was planning on stacking. Older tractor is a different story they are typically heavier, much easier to fix and will keep going with about everything on it wore out or broke. A bad sensor will keep a new one in the barn.

Because they are worth it.
The green ones anyway.

My dad bought his dream tractor about 18 months ago. I brand new JD 4x4 FEL , e series, because he isn't a professional farmer and was told that was good for his use. It was returned 3-4 time due to different problems, emissions crap, fuel issues, etc... It has since been returned and he is now looking at a Mahindra. We have always been a Deere family, and I have a 5410, but the new ones ( are junk compared to it. Just my experience. If you have to have a deere, don't buy the E series

My 1981 International 986 is worth its weight in gold. (Well not really as it weighs about 10,000 pounds).

I love this tractor. I had a 4093E and sold it back and lost money. It was always broken down.

I have had the 986 for several years. It has given me no problems except the AC has a small leak. I usually have to recharge it in the spring and sometimes again mid summer. Just check\change fluids when you are supposed to and it will out work me.

PTO is 105 HP and has never not done what I needed it to do. If you can find something like that, and it has been taken care of you should consider it.

FEL works good for shooting houses also. Kubota m7040

I'm still jelious

Pre emmisons, Kubota Mx5100 (up to 2012) is an excellent choice, pull 6 ft implements, and can still be hauled with 1/2 ton truck with the correct trailer

I completely disagree. I have a 2012-13 (can't remember)JD 5045e with FEL and I've had zero problems with mine. I bought it with I think 190 hrs on it. It's got 350 now. BUT I don't have emissions stuff. I really like my tractor and would do it all over again.

My understanding is that 2013 was the year that required the final phase of the emissions control. I hurried to make the trade and get a 2012 model. They didn't even offer a down exhaust on a 2013 and I have to have that in the woods.

Mine still has a bunch of junk on it, but the E series is the least complicated line that JD offers.

The new electronics on tractors is no different than the electronics in a game camera. Keep both inside in a controlled environment they will last a lifetime. Get them out in the rain, dust, hot, cold, etc. the electronics will give problems.


About 90% of the BS electronics on these small tractors are not needed.

The new electronics on tractors is no different than the electronics in a game camera. Keep both inside in a controlled environment they will last a lifetime. Get them out in the rain, dust, hot, cold, etc. the electronics will give problems.

I see. So I can do anything with my new tractor that I did with my old tractor except get it wet, use it outside in the dust, use it in the summer, or use it in the winter Uh, got it.

I do agree the E version syxks but that's because of EPA regs. Buy a pre-2010 john Deere and you'll be happy for life. Don't buy any new tractors, they all have the HP killing and life shortening EPA garbage

And don't forget, yours was made in GA; mine was made in India.

That makes perfect sense, preacher. They're the only ones who can figure out how to run a computer on diesel fuel.

X3

I fooled with them all best advice I can give is forgett about a new Deere start going to sales and looking around for 70-80's model Deere. You can buy 4 of them models for what you can buy one new one last two I redone 1630 55hp, and a 300 50hp motor sleeve kits I think were only about 625$. There are a lot of them old and English models around and far as just a tractor to use you can't beatem

I've got a 2000 model JD but I love the 70s and 80s john Deere's. They are bulletproof.

And you would be surprised how many of them are around and can be bought for 5-8$ thousand. And how many setting around a barn tore up that can be bought cheap with little wrong with them. Nobody that ain't been around one wants to fool with the brake pads bought a bunch of them cheap because of no brakes

Farmall 140 or 274
Or a JD 1050

My son bought 2 JD 4020s from a farmer that was down sizing last spring for a packaged price of $13,000. I sold one before we even picked them up later that day. His daddy had bought them new in 1970 and 1971. Both had a o ring leaking on engine cooler. It took about 15 minutes to fix. The one we kept I had to install a water pump kit, replace the PTO control seal under dash and tape up a naked wire.
Total price on oil $145.00 and kit and o rings around $160.00.
Except for a o ring or gasket or hydraulic hose I expect it to last longer then I have left on this earth.

I have a 5065e that's an 09, 10, or 11 (can't remember). I got it as an off lease several years ago with a few hundred hours on it. So far the only issue I have had is the cold start sensor went bad which was blowing the ignition fuse. It now has about 900ish hours on it. I also bought a 04 Kubota M6800 (the predecessor to the M7040 about 3 years ago, it had 396 hours on it and now has about 700.
Both have been great tractors, the Kubota is a slightly higher HP tractor and is non turbo it runs quieter, smoother, and has noticeably more low end power. However, the JD will flat out work it when breaking ground. Both have water in the rear tires, the JD does have water in the front tires and a FEL, so the total JD weight is higher.

FEL's and 4WD are two options that do not seem to depreciate, but a 2WD tractor without a FEL can be had for pretty cheap (compared to new).

Thanks for all of the info fellers! I believe the way to go is save the money and buy a 70's -80's model JD and have a better tractor than the new ones with all the sensors.

Do yourself a favor and buy an older tractor that is put together had isint built light. I've got a 98 new Holland 65 horse that's built like a tank. I wouldn't trade that tractor for anything they make these days.

Get an old one and just tell yourself if it tears up... I'll just have to fix it. Can't beat a Ford/New Holland and some of the Masseys. They have good parts availability. Also the Deere 2030, 2440, 2640 series I like for reliability and excellent power for their size.

I started rewiring a mid 1970's Ford this past weekend. Tore all the wires out of it and hooked the key switch back up and one wire to battery from alternator. Fires right up and I could go plow a field with it. Probably has three wires hooked up total.

You can't do that with a new one.