Thanks. This one is a 4X6. Our other one is a 4X4. You can take these off the platform every year and put them in storage, if you wanted. You can set them on the ground, too.

Around $400, I believe. That was a couple years ago.

If you are not going to elevate it - go to a moving company and get some of their wooden crates 8'x4'x6' (they will give them to you) - fit perfectly in the back of a full sized pickup (tailgate down). Frame it for strength, cut and hinge the portals and doors.

It will last about 3-years uncovered.

Get a sportsman condo and be done with it for a looooong time.

My wife works at a shipyard and is looking into some crates as well. There's a guy in Florida that sells them for $60 but by the time I spend gas money to get them I may as well build.

Wouldn't be hard to make these 4x6.

We built 5 of these last year, if you can weld you cant beat it. It's light weight and should last longer than wood. We had roughly $90 in the conduit and $120 in the siding. Instead of tin we used PVC corrugated roofing panels from Home Depot:

The plan in the link below is for 10' bases, the attached material list is for 5' bases.

-Cutting List: http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=627722
-Set shooting rail at 41" high. Door opening is 24". Shooting window
opening is 12 inches.
- Corner and cross bracing for platform on tower base is welded underneath
so plywood lays flat.
- Bottom corner bracing on shooting enclosure is welded on top so enclosure
sits flush on plywood floor.
Tower Stand measurements- Base/ ladder section all ¾” EMT Conduit
(6) 5’ stalks – legs and ladder
(7) 20” Ladder rungs
(2) 7’ Horizontal around bottom of tower stand base
(2) 5’ Horizontal around bottom of tower stand base
(4) 6’ Horizontal across top of tower at platform including (2) center cross braces to support plywood
(2) 4’ Horizontal across top to finish rectangle
(24) 12” corner braces (use up scrap first)
(3) Cut to fit (roughly 3.5’) leg cross bracing
Tower Stand measurements-shooting enclosure all ½” EMT Conduit
(9) 48” Short side (depth) wall supports, and center floor support
Cut 2 out of a 10’ stalk – leaves 24” scrap for corner braces or 12” bottom braces
(6) 72” width bottom/top/window supports
(2) 72” Front uprights- ends are not flattened on any uprights
(4) 69” Rear uprights and door frame (3” drop for angle on roof)
(8) 12” angle braces for floor of stand - and small shooting window rails on either side of door- 2 can be cut from scrap left over from horizontal frame
(6) 24” angled corner baces from upright to lower shooting window rail
140’ ½” EMT Conduit, 140’ of ¾” EMT Conduit, 1 sheet ½” plywood, tin, sides

A 4' x 4' shooting house is just too dang small for me. I like a comfortable office chair to sit in and they are just too little for me.

I've been building one a year for the last 3 years on my land. I keep tweaking the plan a little each time a slight improvement and here's the latest. Material list doesn't include metal roofing that I have left over from building my barn.

My biggest is an 8x8. You can stretch out and take a nap in it.

The latest ones are 6x6

We have 3 like this. They work well but are colder than wooden ones. They are also 6x6

I built an 8x8 that is 7' off the ground -had plans of framing up walls and such -the land was reportedly sold as soon as I had the platform built.

I made my mind up I wasn't going to try and make it 'perfect' -just get it close to square screw it off good and hunt out of it.
I used 4x4 treated [all materials treated] for the legs -I measured the width of a 2x6 down from the top and glued and screwed a 1' 2x4 at the corners for the 2x6 to sit on.

Screwed a 2x6 joist to the top of 2 4x4's dropped the 4x4 legs into a 1' deep hole I had dug -leveled them -packed dirt around to hold it upright.
Repeated that process by digging 2 more holes square to the standing 4x4 with 2x6 joist.
Then joined the 2 together -now all you have to do is add 3 more joist hangers/joists heave a 3/4" sheet of treated plywood -square it up -screw it down to joist .
You will have a couple of inch gap since non of the joist were cut -you'll need a 1x4 to fill the gap . NO lumber cutting -ALL full length 8' lumber and decking.
This took me 5hrs by myself -I was informed that evening the land had been sold and the future of the lease was unknown .
SO instead of building roof -walls and windows etc. like I had planned I used some odd shaped rolled edge 1x2" lumber - don't even know what it is used for but it is in the treated lumber area at lowes depot.
I screwed these 8' length 1x2" 'sticks' to the outside edge around the perimeter then used some over head and put an 8x8 camo tarp over it for a roof - then used camo tarp for walls and some screen to look/shoot through. Just staple the wall camo tarp on from inside the blind -I've used landscape weed barrior stuff too -CHEAP $5 a roll -just staple it from the inside.
About $250 in materials and 8 hrs of labor .
I just cobble it here and there when need be -I camp out in this shooting house for days at a time .
I have a cot/deeluxe pad -5gal. water dispenser -walmart sleeping bags [made in Alabama] -propane stove and can see and shoot from 3 directions 75 yds -210 yds and 300+ yds.

no plans but here are some pics:

out with the old, single man:


disassemblied panels on trailer to be reassembled on base:


building base:


these two young fellas are both 6'2" and they had plenty of room:


getting the sides together:


roof on, then trim:


think that one was 5' x 8'

removing this one to place in new spot. it is 4' x 6':


augered holes in hard-pack:


placing on base:


winching into position:


repurposed old base wood for tensioners and built new stairs.it will fit two of these snug:


the 6' x 8's are really big if you have to sit and watch alone.

I saw this one on a club I turkey hunted and had to take a pic. No way I would sit on it.