I saw this on another forum and figured I'd document the steps of the loading process. This is a general technique I was taught by a few fellas on here, I did not create these recipes or process and I am simply documenting the process I was shown as well as the tools used to help anyone in future. I'd like to thank Hawglips, Basser69, 3Toe, and Squeaky for their instruction and helping me with all my questions.

Firstly you need shell components and shot each recipe will call for slightly different components so I will not get into component or load specifics. I ordered most components And tools from BPI or precision reloading.


Also, you will need a few tools. All of which will cost about 100$
ReLoading scale
Hull vice
Roll crimp die
Drill (preferably a drill press)
Powder trickler
Buffer dipper/scoop
Shell holder (this I made from a 1x6 and drilled 10 holes to fit a 20ga hull)
5/8" dowel cut to 2-3/8" length with screw in one end

First you need to prepare your wads. In this case one piece of cork and 2 pieces of felt.

I pushed these down and packed them with the screw on my dowel.


Next I rolled up a Mylar (not all loads will call for this) and placed it in the wad and worked it down snug between the felt and the wad until flush with the wad.



I was shown for this particular load to trim the hulls, not all recipes may call for this. Place the dowel into the hull with screw sticking out.(you may need to take a little sand paper to dowel so it fits in hull better) and trim Hull with razor or exacto knife.

Once you get all the wads and hulls prepared you are ready to move on to putting the shells together.

Weigh powder

Put into hull and tamp down.


And place wad into hull ontop of powder. (some loads might call for a gas seal on top of powder before the wad)

Pack down wad to create a good seal onto powder.

Thanks!

Next you will measure shot and buffer if needed.

Add to wad already packed down in hull on powder.

add overshot card and viabrate or tamp down

Great job!

Now you are ready to roll crimp, place in hull vice on drill press.

Turn on drill and slowly apply pressure to hull melting/crimping it down onto overshot card. You want to be able to shake shells and not hear shot moving around.

Last, label the shell with a pen, I used fingernail polish to seal shells.



Thank you to everyone who advised me on this process, again it is not my process just sharing some great knowledge some great guys here shared with me! If anyone has anything to add to make the process easier please Feel free to add your wisdom.

I've never used mylar. Does the mylar go all the way to the bottom of the wad?

Well done BustinBeards!! This needs to be a sticky for everyone to use. How about it Yekrut? Help us out here

The mylar keeps the shot from scoring the barrel. You need to use it.

What he said! Between the Mylar and the wad your barrel is safe

The load I've loaded didn't call for it is the only reason I've never used it.

Hmm pm

Well done Rob!!

I know a guy that invented a recipe for one that uses a really thick wad instead of Mylar. It's super hot too. It did fine in my gun but another buddy tried it and it blew the plastic part of the hull out the end of his barrel.
Maybe just a tad over pressure lol

Very nice roll crimps Rob. Better than Bassers. Can you give him lessons?

Yea I forgot those vp90 wads don't call for it.

Yeah but I'm not sure that I trust them. I feel better with Mylar. I kinda figured out that on Tommy's loads that as long as the gun is still functional after it goes off that he just calls it good. He's not terribly concerned about keeping it under SAAMI I wouldn't think that barrel life would be his greatest concern either
Has anybody else created a vp90 recipe?

From what I hear there is alot of turkey hunters that take this approach to shot shells. If the gun don't blow up its good.

I'd feel better shooting Tommy's loads than Nitros though

I use the vp90 (BIG 20 Stubby XL) recipe hadn't had any problems yet.

one of the better one's I shoot doesn't call for mylar...but I added it to the recipe and haven't noticed any drop off in performance

I've got to get a drill press... My roll crimps look like a tree rat been chewing on them.

LOL...mine do too. I did my .410 shells last night without any kind of vice, just holding if in my left hand and a drill in my right hand...looks aweful, but I bet they will shoot just fine.

Those .410s are rough. Even with a press mine don't look great.

I bought one of the little 100$ drill press. Put it on the lowest speed. The 20 and 12 look good.

Oh, I got one of those too. I think it was from applying too much pressure too quickly while crimping. Seems like the slower I crimp them the better The hull melts down and the better they turn out. But, I did crimp the whole roll off the top of one.

To much pressure is what I was doing wrong. I got my roll crimp hot as hell before every starting and the first several looked ok. Then I started zipping through them fast and using more pressure. I'll slow it down next time, but I have 31 ready for season. I sealed them up with fingernail polish tonight and april drop them in the truck box and vest later this week. It's almost time.

Bustinbeards I think we have the same drill press from Habor frieght. What speed are you running your on?

Do you guys try to mix the buffer all through the shot or do you just put the buffer on top and try to shake it down?

I shake mine down

Wade I add the buffer to my weighed shot before I place in the hull.

I'm an idiot.

This may not matter but when you are roll crimping just using a handheld drill do you run the drill at the high or low speed on the drill? I know its all about a combo of heat and pressure, so I didn't know if it made a difference.

I did my first batch yesterday. Used a cordless drill at medium speed with medium pressure. They turned out better than I expected. The very first one was a little rough, but I think I was applying too much pressure. You can see it at about the 10 o'clock position in the pic. I did ten more last night and they all came out good. CD.

Thanks Mike. I will try weighing them together and mixing them up before putting it in.

This is definitely the better deal. I put my measured shot charges in medicine cups, pour the measured buffer over it, and then gently shake the cup to distribute the buffer throughout the shot. Much, much easier than trying to vibrate it down.

I'll have to check this out during the summer when I get some free cash. Right now I have to focus on actually seeing the gobblers but anything that helps the chances when I do see one would be great. Too bad you can't buy this stuff ready made.

that would take all the fun out of it. Lol

True, I have reloaded .223 - It is fun. But I have no dedicated space for it so having to unpack everything then pack it all back up when done sucks. But I'd like to make some of this for sure. I might try to nab some tungsten shot now if I can find any, before the price gets any higher. Anyone got a source for #9?

Hawglips on here has all the shot and recipes you will need. Shoot him a pm

So when they went to fold crimps the big industry selling point was:

"No More Blown Patterns" allegedly caused by the cards.

A MEC JR is only $200 and considerably less used. $100 or less usually.

I don't think there is such a thing as a blown TSS pattern caused by the cards. I'll even use cards with fold crimped loads at times. Just not an issue.

You seem pretty sure. And you may be right. But consider for $50 a fella can get a 12ga Lee Load All and if he goes slow get good results in the crimping department.

Just food for thought.

I believe Hal has forgot more about loading tss and what works than the rest us will ever know.

If my patterns are "blown" I like em that way. Don't know if I could handle them much tighter.

I use a Lee Load all to crimp the 1 7/8 oz TSS load I'm shooting. I also use a tyvex OSC that is super thin. This tweaked 1 7/8 oz load is lights out in my Franchi. I could not get the original 1 7/8 oz load to pattern.

Seriously
What's the point of a tutorial if everyone is so tight lipped on the powder charge, primer, length of shell, buffer amount....
Just curious

To demonstrate the loading process. Each recipe uses slightly different components, hulls, wads, powder, and possibly charge or shot amount. The guy you buy your shot from (hawglips) will give you his recipe for what you are trying to set up. He has all his loads SAMI tested.

Why do I have to buy from him when I can order straight from the manufacturer?

Just stating the obvious but it sounds like you need a recipe to load. I don't know why you would want to ruin your barrel anyway.

I'm just curious to why this extraordinary shot isn't sold in stores and is (from what everyone says) available from one guy. With a little research I've found quite a few places to buy it from overseas. Being that it's only available for handload I was just asking why people are so tight lipped about it. I can ruin my barrel with steel, no need for me going the extra mile.

I'd just stick with steel.

Naw lead is king 😁

Sticky please

because he has the recipe, only way to get the recipe is to buy the shot from him. He has put many many many hours into perfecting the load, and no telling how much money.

Is hawgslips still selling this stuff?

Most likely

lead I

Where can I get tss shot

Is there something we can do to get the pictures back in this thread? Or am I the only one that can't see them?

I still have the pics and can use imagur to upload, but I can't edit the post.... Maybe Yek can figure out a way for me to edit it and re link the pics...

I would appreciate it. I was late to the TSS game. By the time I accumulated the things needed, primed 20 ga. cases got scarce. By then the pictures were gone. Thanks, guys.