I am having to fix a leaking sewer line (2” PVC) that someone installed a retaining wall piling on top of. The leak is directly under the concrete holding the piling (imagine that). The leak is also on the down stream side of what I would call a force main line, but does not retain pressure. I’m also not a plumber.

The house sewer accumulates in a cistern, and a grinder pump moves everything to the street about 40 feet away and about 3-4’ up over that 40’. My question is, can I re-route the line around the piling and concrete using 4 90-degree angle fittings without causing any issues? I know that many turns in the line is not ideal, but I want to try to avoid the hassle of digging up a large portion of the line to move it over a foot. My idea involves about an 2’ squared “U” in the line. I could possibly use some 45-degree fittings (or whatever meets the angle) in place of the 90’s.

Any thoughts?

[img]https://imgur.com/a/i5Tm1EF[/img]


https://i.imgur.com/alES0gp.jpeg

no plumber here but id go with two 45°'s connected or if you can find them a 22 1/2° sweep elbow. i think with the 90's you are asking for trouble when it comes to something getting hung up

Elbows and sewer lines don’t work well together. Bhammedic84 is on the right track

Depending on your pump specifications, you should be fine. I would recommend a thrust block to keep the fittings from blowing off. If you can see the leak you could repair it with a wrap around clamp.

Bclc and bhammedic are correct

What kind of pipe? And it’s the service line down stream of the pump going from the pump to the sewer main?

Looks like 1.5” pvc?

It’s a 2” PVC pipe. And yes, the break/leak is downstream from the pump going towards the sewer main.

Use 45’s and glue just like you would water pipe. Clean it good with purple cleaner or alcohol and use the good glue. Easy peasy. You can even use a compression fitting on one side to make it easy.

What do you mean specifically when you say the “good glue”?

Not 10 year old half cans.
Always give it a good shake. I like the small cans so I can throw them away a year or two after use. I like new glue on hard to get to spots

I like that blue glue so I can visually see that I used enough.
I like to hold the fitting on and give it a little twist. Not when it spins freely. But right when it's about to bind, so when I give it a quarter turn it's stops spinning on its on.

You'd be amazed how easily It'll come loose on its on or when you move it, if you've used too much glue.
Kinda hard to explain with words.

Yep the blue stuff. Don’t over glue it and let it set up good before you turn the pump back on. I would let it set up 30 minutes or so. Quarter turn just like goodman_hunter said. I would use a compression coupling on one side so you don’t have to bend the pipe up and force it in the last fitting. They cost a little more but save you on the install. Just need a 2 pipe wrenches or 2 big pairs of channel locks to tighten it down. Makes sure no dirt gets in the gasket in the compression coupling. And dig more than enough hole to work in. The only thing worse than plumbing work is doing it in a tiny hole with not enough room.

Do you know if the main it runs to is force or gravity?

Where you use the compression fitting. I like to use a long bell(short bell doesn't work well)fitting from a new piece of pipe, cutoff. Used like a slip coupling. I mark with sharpie to ensure proper fitting. I'm not sure which is actually better, my way can be easier to use though, especially underground.
ETA
I've never worked on a drain like OP described

We have a similar saying in surgery: "Little incision....Big Mistake!!"

Never dealt with 2” sewage, do they make 90’ sweeps in 2”, would save a lot of glue joints, 4 90’ equals 8 45’

They do as long as it’s schedule 40 pipe. Just have to probably switch to gray sweeps because they are used more in the electrical world.

I have done that several times with 4” when I couldn’t find a compression coupling. It is a great way to repair in a tight spot. I didn’t think about that when I suggested the compression coupling. A telescopic coupling would work well too. They are just expensive. Well worth it though if you are in a bind.