I am terrible at sharpening them. Hunting knives, kitchen knives, whatever. I desperately want to be better. I want the right sharpener. The right technique. The right knife! I have none of those. I want that pro chef razor sharp knife. Help.

Start with a lansky. It will teach you angles or you can Start with a sharpie and paint your bevel. As you sharpen it will tell you where you’re messing up. I use DMT sharpener which is diamond sharpener. I use fine, extra fine then switch to a ceramic rod then strop with leather with rubbing compound rubbed into the leather. It takes patience and the right angle. If you do it long enough you will be able to see yourself in the bevel like a mirror and that’s stupid sharp.

Some people like Japanese wet stones as well. But just like painting a mirror finish. Start lower grit and work your way up till you get up there and you’re happy with the sharpness. Angles/edge is what you gotta pay attention to. I just use the edge that came with the knife. I don’t reprofile my edge. I just get it sharp and keep it sharp. Once it’s sharp it’s pretty easy to touch up.

Spyderco sharp maker. Expensive but worth it. And if I can use it anyone can.

Same. I’ve been keeping the Benchmade AU7MM08 gifted me with a worksharp, but I know it’s hard on the blade. Looking at some of those bench mounted gimbal style units to help keep the angle consistent.

Another vote for Lansky. Then finish it with a good razor strop.

The key to sharpening a knife or razor, is not letting it get too dull - I know that may sound stupid, but it is true.

When I used to do relief carving - I sharpened primarily with a Japanese wet stone then a leather strop. I then advanced to a honing wheel with different compounds for an exceptionally razor sharp tool, the key is to remove the burr/wire. You can also get a honing belt with different compounds for a Worksharp - I used them and they are OK, but not great.

For hunting knives - I use three tools: Worksharp (6000 grit) for the initial edge, Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker (ceramic), and finally a leather strop with compound. It will glide across your finger nail with no catches. Note: You don't want to shave the hair on your arm, you choose a single hair and cut it, unless you want to bleed.

Kitchen knives and pocket knives: Worksharp (6000 grit) and the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker (ceramic). It will shave the hair on your arm.

Just be careful with the Worksharp - it can remove a lot of material.

You wanna learn how to sharpen the hard way just buy a Arkansas stone some good oil and go at it

I'd just rather do it the cheap fast way . Go to Walmart buy you a cheap one that has the two carbide bits next to each other in a V shape .

A good rod can and will help keep your knife sharp. Never understood why folks feel the need to bust out a stone everytime their knife gets a little dull, but to each their own 😏

hunting -231 seems like 6000 grit on a work sharp would be too fine and put more of a rounded edge because one would have a tendacy to press into the belt harder. how do you keep the edge from rounding with such a fine grit? my solution was to go with a courser grit and just barely touch the blade to it, but then again I aint too good.

Get them sharp and keep them sharp with a pair of Crock Sticks. It's the cheapest and easiest way to keep knives sharp. I actually drilled two holes in our kitchen cutting board and stuck two ceramic sticks in it, that way whenever one of our kitchen knives gets a little dull, I can give it a few swipes without having to look for the damned sharpener.

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Turn-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1I2SMILYCPRNP&keywords=crock+sticks&qid=1675248772&sprefix=crock+sticks%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-7

Tru Hone

Wicked edge. Expensive, but the best you can get. I lusted after one for ten years before I got one.

You really can't mess it up with one of these. Watch the video. Once you get it sharp, don't let it get dull before touching it up again.

Kitchen knives mist be hand washed; no dishwashing machine. Do not cut against bone. Do not use a hard cutting board.

I never could keep one sharp either so I just bought one of those knives that has the replaceable scalpel blades. Works like a champ and is always razor sharp.

I like just a regular old whetrock. That will get it sharp enough to cut hair which is good enough for me.

I've made knives for 30 odd years. Started when ATS-34 was considered THE "premium" steel. Always used a large soft Arkansas.followed by a hard Arkansas, then a leather strop. If they are too battered, start with a worn out 400 gritbelt, then a fresh 1200 grit, then a buffer. Never had any use for the many "systems" The Spyderco Sharpmaker changed that. They will put a factory razor sharp edge back on a knife faster than anything except a belt grinder. Expensive, but worth every penny.

ive had best of luck with the ken orion work sharp

Wow lots of good product suggestions. I will have to look through then. I have been using a little v type that you drag it through. I am not consistent enough with just a stone. I think my technique is as Mucha problem as anything

I do try to not let them get too dull. And I do use a steel

wet dry sandpaper on a leather-lined hardwood block, completely flat, starting at 400 grit and working down to at least 1500 grit or finer, then stropping on leather block loaded with green polishing compound. learn on youtube, or sites like bushcraftusa. you'll have to build eye and hand micro skills to get angles right ...