I’ve got a Tikka T3 CTR with the factory mounted picatinny rail, nightforce x-treme 4 screw rings and a Zeiss V6 3-18x50. Should I have to lap these rings? The scope doesn’t sit perfectly once the rings are torqued. I’ve read that nightforce says it’s a no no on lapping their rings.

It's odd that rail mounted rings would not be aligned.

If you have another rail I would mount the rings on it and see if you have the same issue. If not it’s the rail. If yes then it’s the rings. I had an issue with a set of aluminum rings that had a burr underneath the coating just enough it wasn’t seating properly.

I tried them on a EGW rail mounted on a savage model 16. They were the same way.

I would call Nightforce on Monday.
A bad batch could have gotten out or something.

Are the rings and scope diameter the same size?

Could you be using 1" rings on a 30mm scope tube?

God Bless,
David B.

Or 34mm rings?

They are Nightforce 30mm ultra lite rings Boff.

Start simple and work up in difficulty for solutions.

Any picture of the scope mounted in the rings?

God Bless,
David B.

Does the scope sit uneven in the rings without the ring caps on? Does swapping the ring caps from one ring to the other make a difference? For chits n giggles, try a different scope in the rings to rule out bent tube on the Zeiss. If the rings still fail after those tests send them back.

This is why I sure Burris Signature rings.... instead of all these other great ideas.

If the rings are picatinny and they need lapping you bought high priced junk. There is plenty of it on the market.

I have the wheeler kits and with the alignment bars the rings do not line up. I tried vortex and nightforce rings. The scope fits into the ring bases but has a little resistance in the front ring base. I called Beretta USA tech support and the guy said he’s had 100’s of calls about this and he suggested using sako optilocks. If they didn’t work I could send the gun back to have the picatinny rail checked. The rail is held on by 5 screws and also expoxied to the receiver. Tomorrow I’m trying the rings and scope on yet another gun to try and rule out the rings. Goatkiller which burris rings do you use?

I’ve never had a problem with Burris signature zee rings with the plastic inserts.

Where possible I use Burris Signature Zee rings with the plastic inserts. To be fair going into this I do not ever have alignment issues that are as noticeable as you are describing. Not sure what's going on but a picatinny rail being out of spec is probably hard to mess up on a factory gun. Not saying it can't happen but.... I'm sure it can and has. You can adjust some things around on the Burris rings they have different inserts to shift the scope, however if you are noticeably out of alignment you'll wind up with some boogered up canted scope job and you don't want this... even though it might work. Rather get the rifle fixed if that is the case. But if things are just barely out it of alignment you at least got options with the Burris rings. Seat the rings to the rear when you mount them and as mentioned check for a metal burr and if anything looks like it is cut funny where the rings lock onto the rail. I'm sure you've already done that. Also move the rings to different mounting positions on the rail and see what happens. I would stick with the rail if you can instead of completely changing the mounts. I'm old school but I like a rail because of the adjustability with today's scopes, some of which don't have a lot of adjustment on the scope tube itself because the way they are designed. If the scope doesn't much adjustment length on the tube, when you swap over to fixed mounts and you can't get a comfortable eye relief. You start going down the rabbit hole at some point. Shouldn't be that hard.

Man just call nightforce, they’ll tell you to send them in and in the meantime they’ll probably send out a replacement. They have good customer service.

I have mounted hundreds of scopes on Nightforce rings. Do it for a living. Lightly hand tighten bottom half of rings to rail,carefully set scope in place and if rings are still out of line loosen them slightly. Scope should fall into place and rotate smoothly with no binding. Put top half of rings on with just enough tension to allow you to align crosshairs and position for eye relief. When aligned tighten top screws by alternating in x pattern 1/4 turn at a time to recommended inch pounds. Then push scope forward until rings hit the rail. Tighten crossbolts to correct torque specs and that should solve your problem. No need to send back to factory. I use this technique every day on all brands of rings. If you tighten them before fitting scope they almost always twist slightly. If still have problems bring it by Marks Outdoors in Vestavia and ask for Ben. I will figure it out. Over 14,000 scopes mounted in last eight years, I’m getting pretty good at it.

What I like to do is push the front ring to the forward position and the rear ring rearward to the back and tighten it all down on the rail. No shift either direction. That might not be for everyone because you might not be able to take the optic on/off quite as easily. That's what I have found works best with 50BMG. From a recoil perspective that's my first hand experience and how I set all of mine. Uncle Sam said to push them forward and remove the optic or accessory to the rear and off, I misspoke in the previous post I meant seat them to the front.

You certainly don't have to use Burris but they work great on a deer rifle. There are obviously stronger and more robust setups..

No matter which way you go, it doesn't seem to me that you would want to center the scope to the rings by torqueing the ring caps and THEN tighten the bases as then where the bases seat to the rail might be out of spec. To me where the rings seat to the rail is the most important point of contact. If you loosen everything up and tighten it all down incrementally I believe that would certainly work but hide any misalignment issues at the ring/rail contact surface. That's a no go for me. I haven't done 14k but I've done a few that have gotten bumped, dinged, kicked over, thrown, slammed in a door and dropped of a chopper and held zero. I'm not and don't want to be the resident expert but I've used a lot of picatinny rails. Rare to see one out of spec where this would make a material difference.

Update?


God Bless,
David B.

Still working on it. I’ve worked 48 hours OT this week. Probably going to either lap the vortex rings or order the Burris rings.

Ughhh.
I think the hours are getting to you.
Aren't the rings Nightforce x treme rings?

God Bless,
David B.