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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: JayHook2]
#3232532
10/01/20 04:19 PM
10/01/20 04:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,049
USA
marshmud991
14 point
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14 point
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,049
USA
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Not a guru here but I can tell you that every metal roof that was put right on top of shingles here are about a mile to the north and west of the house it was on. The ones that were stripped with 2x4s and good long screws into the rafters are only 1/8 of a mile away with the rafters still entacted. Just kidding. These roofs were still on the houses. Some had minor damage and some were just fine. My old house was stripped with 2x4s and good screws and it survived Rita and I asked my Godfather( the person who bought it) and he said the roof survived Laura also. I hope this helps you.
It's hard to kiss the lips at night that chews your a$$ all day long.
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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: JayHook2]
#3232548
10/01/20 04:55 PM
10/01/20 04:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,792
Hoover, AL
M48scout
12 point
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12 point
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,792
Hoover, AL
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Download some installation guides from various manufacturers. The ones I read all directly prohibited putting it down on shingles. The thermal expansion scratches the metal underneath causing corrosion. The guides I read seemed to prescribe exactly what marshmud described. That, and placing insulation board in between furring strips (2x4’s screwed to rafters) to displace volume of air that will contain water vapor and condense underneath. The guides also go to a great deal of detail on the screwing patterns around the perimeter (key to preventing uplift and peeling off from wind), and a great deal of detail on the various flashing and sealing. I think even if you are hiring it out it’s a good idea to locate and download 2 or 3 of those product brochures/installation manuals. After educating yourself you can better decide who is a quality installer.
EDIT: BTW depending on how your house is built, finding the rafter centerline at the ridge and eave as you progress across the roof length may not be trivial. The one roof I did was very time consuming because it was not laid out on 16” centers and varied from ridge to eave. I had to probe with screws to establish each rafter and snap a chalk line for each rafter. A professional no doubt knows more tricks than me, but I could see how someone competing on jobs would avoid doing that if possible and the customer didn’t make them.
Last edited by M48scout; 10/01/20 05:16 PM.
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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: M48scout]
#3232560
10/01/20 05:10 PM
10/01/20 05:10 PM
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 18,050
North AL
AU338MAG
Old Mossy Horns
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Old Mossy Horns
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 18,050
North AL
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Download some installation guides from various manufacturers. The ones I read all directly prohibited putting it down on shingles. The thermal expansion scratches the metal underneath causing corrosion. The guides I read seemed to prescribe exactly what marshmud described. That, and placing insulation board in between furring strips (2x4’s screwed to rafters) to displace volume of air that will contain water vapor and condense underneath. The guides also go to a great deal of detail on the screwing patterns around the perimeter (key to preventing uplift and peeling off from wind), and a great deal of detail on the various flashing and sealing. I think even if you are hiring it out it’s a good idea to locate and download 2 or 3 of those product brochures/installation manuals. After educating yourself you can better decide who is a quality installer. Good advice. If you are in a coastal region different codes apply for roofing. IIRC, mobile and Baldwin counties started requiring an ice/water shield under all new roofs a few years ago. This is not just for new houses but replacement roof projects. Tear the shingles off and Do it right and save some headaches in the future.
Dying ain't much of a living boy...Josey Wales
Molon Labe
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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: 257wbymag]
#3232616
10/01/20 07:01 PM
10/01/20 07:01 PM
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 30,910
Clanton, AL
Out back
Grumpy Old Man
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Grumpy Old Man
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 30,910
Clanton, AL
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Yeah buts he's an expert on everything. 😉
My opinions and comments are my own. They do not reflect the position or political opinions of Aldeer or any of the Aldeer administration.
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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: M48scout]
#3232642
10/01/20 07:45 PM
10/01/20 07:45 PM
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Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 3,397
Sylvania Alabama
Sandmtnslayer
10 point
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10 point
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 3,397
Sylvania Alabama
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Download some installation guides from various manufacturers. The ones I read all directly prohibited putting it down on shingles. The thermal expansion scratches the metal underneath causing corrosion. The guides I read seemed to prescribe exactly what marshmud described. That, and placing insulation board in between furring strips (2x4’s screwed to rafters) to displace volume of air that will contain water vapor and condense underneath. The guides also go to a great deal of detail on the screwing patterns around the perimeter (key to preventing uplift and peeling off from wind), and a great deal of detail on the various flashing and sealing. I think even if you are hiring it out it’s a good idea to locate and download 2 or 3 of those product brochures/installation manuals. After educating yourself you can better decide who is a quality installer.
EDIT: BTW depending on how your house is built, finding the rafter centerline at the ridge and eave as you progress across the roof length may not be trivial. The one roof I did was very time consuming because it was not laid out on 16” centers and varied from ridge to eave. I had to probe with screws to establish each rafter and snap a chalk line for each rafter. A professional no doubt knows more tricks than me, but I could see how someone competing on jobs would avoid doing that if possible and the customer didn’t make them. Exactly what my insurance guy told me just a few days ago
Not all Indians were hunters some toted firewood
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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: JayHook2]
#3232670
10/01/20 08:08 PM
10/01/20 08:08 PM
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 12,918
Old Florida
Geno
Booner
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Booner
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 12,918
Old Florida
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Furring strips and put the screws an inch or more into the rafter if at all possible. It adds structural stability to the whole unit when done correctly. I have no idea how to do that other than poking a bunch of holes in the shingles - not a roofer or a carpenter.
Whoever is happy will make others happy too. Anne Frank
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Re: Who is the metal roof guru on here?
[Re: JayHook2]
#3232737
10/01/20 09:29 PM
10/01/20 09:29 PM
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 824
Oakman, Al
Myerz
6 point
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6 point
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 824
Oakman, Al
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Just a layer of felt between the shingles and the tin will be fine. The gravel on the shingles will actually over time rub holes in the tin if this is not done, causing lots of issues
Last edited by Myerz; 10/01/20 09:30 PM.
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