Never had it done but I think that the single six in this video was cerokoted. Has me thinking about having mine done like it but that one looks scratched on the barrel. I thought cerokote was supposed to resist scratching.

Resistant. Not scratch-proof.
I had an AR upper and lower done then promptly chewed some finish off re-installing the bolt-release(forgot the tape).

Slightly more durable than Krylon...

I can't stand the feel of Cerakote.

🤔

I've had numerous firearms cerakoted. A lot depends on who does it and making sure they prep the surface adequately. It's not scratchproof for sure, but does have many applications that are beneficial. If done correctly, finish can be touched up using very fine steel wool. Almost all of my AR lowers are cerakoted, a couple 1911s, and a number of slides on various other makes/models. Had a Marlin 1895 done recently that turned out very good. The stock blueing was lacking for sure. Good example of a poor job was my stock kimber micro 9mm that was cerakoted in desert tan. You would think kimber would have gotten it right, but the cerakote was done poorly. Looks like they barely coated it and the finish marred and wore very quickly. Stripped it down and had my friend refinish with matt black Not sure I'd be quick to cerakote a revolver. Those that I've seen had obvious cylinder rings and the flash from cylinder gap has got to cause issues.

Most gunsmiths who cerakote will cut you a break if the firearm is totally disassembled.

It's definitely not scratch proof.
I've also talked to folks who apply it. who don't follow the proper procedure to prep the parts.
When I do it, I follow the NIC application and prep instructions to the letter.
I've had good results so far, and some even surprised me.
One of the first guns I did had a punch slide across the slide when it slipped as the front sight was being reinstalled
It made a mark on the finish that I was literally able to wipe of with my thumb.

I've also done revolvers. You will develop a drag ring just as you would with bluing.
The cylinder on magnums needs to be done with the air cure. It's stands up to heat better than the heat cure.
I had to redo a 357 that was originally done with heat cure when the fire coming through the flash gap burned the finish off.
Re shot it using air cure and it's been good ever since.
Unless it's just less heat and pressure, I don't understand why non-magnum guns don't have that problem.
It may just be the amount of use one sees over the other as, I'm just going off customer feedback