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Trade
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: dnolen]
#2781762
04/10/19 04:27 AM
04/10/19 04:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,484 Bham
Dallas County
Booner
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Booner
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,484
Bham
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Neither one will prevent cracks; they provide strength and a shop shouldn’t need either if you don’t have any really heavy point loading. . There are two types of concrete; the kind that has cracked and the kind that going to crack. The only way to minimize cracks is proper curing. As concrete sets, it generates a lot of heat. Controlling the heat differential between the core of the concrete and the constantly changeing ambient temperature is the key. Most people don’t bother with driveways and slabs because the thickness isn’t much. But, if you will keep it wet with burlap or something similar over the first 12-24 hours it will help tremendously. You can also have the ready mix company add ice but that’s usually for really thick pours and a skilled finisher. Pouring at night helps as well. Just do a little research on curing temperatures. And, I'll add that proper control joints help with controlling cracking. Here's a good pedestrian explanation on curing: https://www.thebalancesmb.com/highly-recommended-methods-to-cure-concrete-844449
Last edited by Dallas County; 04/10/19 05:37 AM.
not sure what the best way to handle them is but they shouldnt be on tv and gettn married and raisin kids
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: dnolen]
#2781819
04/10/19 06:50 AM
04/10/19 06:50 AM
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 18,051 North AL
AU338MAG
Old Mossy Horns
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Old Mossy Horns
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 18,051
North AL
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To add to what Dallas said, you do not want your concrete to be self leveling as it is poured. This means there is too much water in the mix. This will create more curling and shrinkage as the concrete cures, which will cause more cracks.
Dying ain't much of a living boy...Josey Wales
Molon Labe
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: dnolen]
#2781880
04/10/19 08:14 AM
04/10/19 08:14 AM
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 21,445 HSV AL
jmudler
Freak of Nature
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Freak of Nature
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 21,445
HSV AL
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30 x 40 shop, did mesh and rebar.
Isaiah 5:20 Woe to those who call evil good and good evil, who put darkness for light and light for darkness, who put bitter for sweet and sweet for bitter.
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: Semo]
#2781942
04/10/19 09:44 AM
04/10/19 09:44 AM
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Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 3,546 Mobile, AL
soalaturkeys
10 point
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10 point
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 3,546
Mobile, AL
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I'm sure there are engineers on this board that could give you all the info in concrete strength and reinforcement requirements.
Though I have been out of the business a while, we used 12 inch centers on 4 inch pours and 18 inch centers on 6 inch for our rebar spacing. Wire mesh works too but is a pain to use on smaller runs.
If it was my shop I would run wire mesh and then tie it together with #4 rebar. Then the 2nd day after the pour I would cut groves every 10 feet.
Overkill, maybe but I never had to go back and redo any of my jobs. I am one of those engineers. Like most things, rule of thumb, with experience to back it up, will cover most situations, and if you are pouring a shop slab of 4 or 8 inches, it's not critical. I would use mesh over the entire slab and rebar just around the edge of the entire slab and fiber for more tensile strength, but I'm cautious. It will crack, as was stated above, so you put in seams to control where it cracks. Foundations and slabs for more than a boat or car or tractor in a shop need to be designed for point or distributed loads, and if that's the case, you need a civil engineer to design it, but doesn't sound like what you have there.
"For the Truth the Turkey is in Comparison a much more respectable Bird, and withal a true original Native of America" ~Benjamin Franklin
Isaiah 40:13-14
RAP is CRAP
NRA Life Member, GOA, BamaCarry Member
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: Dallas County]
#2781946
04/10/19 09:48 AM
04/10/19 09:48 AM
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 25,769 Fayetteville TN Via Selma
jawbone
Freak of Nature
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Freak of Nature
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 25,769
Fayetteville TN Via Selma
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Neither one will prevent cracks; they provide strength and a shop shouldn’t need either if you don’t have any really heavy point loading. . There are two types of concrete; the kind that has cracked and the kind that going to crack. The only way to minimize cracks is proper curing. As concrete sets, it generates a lot of heat. Controlling the heat differential between the core of the concrete and the constantly changeing ambient temperature is the key. Most people don’t bother with driveways and slabs because the thickness isn’t much. But, if you will keep it wet with burlap or something similar over the first 12-24 hours it will help tremendously. You can also have the ready mix company add ice but that’s usually for really thick pours and a skilled finisher. Pouring at night helps as well. Just do a little research on curing temperatures. And, I'll add that proper control joints help with controlling cracking. Here's a good pedestrian explanation on curing: https://www.thebalancesmb.com/highly-recommended-methods-to-cure-concrete-844449WOW Taylor, I just learned a lot. Good explanation and info that I may never need to know, but then again who knows. Truly, I didn't know any of that.
Lord, please help us get our nation straightened out.
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: dnolen]
#2781954
04/10/19 10:01 AM
04/10/19 10:01 AM
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,484 Bham
Dallas County
Booner
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Booner
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 10,484
Bham
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Jawbone, I'm on a red wine and concrete roll today Don't know too much about anything else though.
not sure what the best way to handle them is but they shouldnt be on tv and gettn married and raisin kids
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: soalaturkeys]
#2781965
04/10/19 10:16 AM
04/10/19 10:16 AM
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 906 upatree
rulebreaker
My head is in my ass.
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My head is in my ass.
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 906
upatree
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I'm sure there are engineers on this board that could give you all the info in concrete strength and reinforcement requirements.
Though I have been out of the business a while, we used 12 inch centers on 4 inch pours and 18 inch centers on 6 inch for our rebar spacing. Wire mesh works too but is a pain to use on smaller runs.
If it was my shop I would run wire mesh and then tie it together with #4 rebar. Then the 2nd day after the pour I would cut groves every 10 feet.
Overkill, maybe but I never had to go back and redo any of my jobs. I am one of those engineers. Like most things, rule of thumb, with experience to back it up, will cover most situations, and if you are pouring a shop slab of 4 or 8 inches, it's not critical. I would use mesh over the entire slab and rebar just around the edge of the entire slab and fiber for more tensile strength, but I'm cautious. It will crack, as was stated above, so you put in seams to control where it cracks. Foundations and slabs for more than a boat or car or tractor in a shop need to be designed for point or distributed loads, and if that's the case, you need a civil engineer to design it, but doesn't sound like what you have there. I'm NOT an engineer, just a damned good red-neck fixer of things, AND I stay in a Holiday Inn Express once before and I can tell you this is exactly what I would do.
Don't go looking for TROUBLE, it'll find you soon enough!
There are old, wise men and then there are just old fools. The sooner you learn this, the wiser you will be.
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Re: Concrete?
[Re: Dallas County]
#2782231
04/10/19 04:24 PM
04/10/19 04:24 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 19,088 Chelsea, AL
straycat
Old Mossy Horns
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Old Mossy Horns
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 19,088
Chelsea, AL
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Neither one will prevent cracks; they provide strength and a shop shouldn’t need either if you don’t have any really heavy point loading. . There are two types of concrete; the kind that has cracked and the kind that going to crack. The only way to minimize cracks is proper curing. As concrete sets, it generates a lot of heat. Controlling the heat differential between the core of the concrete and the constantly changeing ambient temperature is the key. Most people don’t bother with driveways and slabs because the thickness isn’t much. But, if you will keep it wet with burlap or something similar over the first 12-24 hours it will help tremendously. You can also have the ready mix company add ice but that’s usually for really thick pours and a skilled finisher. Pouring at night helps as well. Just do a little research on curing temperatures. And, I'll add that proper control joints help with controlling cracking. Here's a good pedestrian explanation on curing: https://www.thebalancesmb.com/highly-recommended-methods-to-cure-concrete-844449Agree completely. I'll further add that you can do everything by the textbook on the actual concrete mix, controlling temps and moisture, the wire/rebar/fiber placement, the forming, the pour, joints, and the finishing---and still have cracks because of other factors going on with the grade or site prep or water impacting the slab well after the pour or a host of other things.
Last edited by straycat; 04/10/19 04:24 PM.
"The grass withers, the flower fades, But the word of our God stands forever." Isaiah 40:8
"Neither the wisest constitution nor the wisest laws will secure the liberty and happiness of a people whose manners are universally corrupt.� Samuel Adams
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