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Re: J D 535 Round Baler
[Re: WhitetailsWood]
#1345263
05/06/15 02:25 PM
05/06/15 02:25 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 39,582 Marshall County
FurFlyin
Freak of Nature
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Freak of Nature
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 39,582
Marshall County
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RobertD is spot on. A brand new baler won't bale worth a flip with a worn out tractor pulling it.
If that's not it, it could be several other things wrong, even the person holding the steering wheel.
If my people, who are called by my name, will humble themselves and pray and seek my face and turn from their wicked ways, then will I hear from heaven and will forgive their sin and will heal their land. 2 Chronicles 7:14
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Re: J D 535 Round Baler
[Re: WhitetailsWood]
#1345325
05/06/15 03:49 PM
05/06/15 03:49 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,217 Satsuma, AL
Robert D.
12 point
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12 point
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,217
Satsuma, AL
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There is a gauge on the RH front side sheet. It measures bale pressure as the baler is baling. Where does it read? Has anybody screwed with the bale density valve? It's a block on the tongue that the hydraulic hoses hook into. It has a big knob with a smaller locking collar knob underneath. If it's opened too much it won't make a tight bale.
How about the monitor? Is it working? No offense, but have these people made a lot of bales with one of these? If they are new to this baler it may be operator error.
Roberts prescriptions for good bale shape and density is as follows.
1. Windrow needs to be half the pickup width (2.5', pickup is 5') or LESS. A windrow 3-4' will fill the middle of the baler ALL the time, resulting in barrel shaped (big in the middle, loose at the edges) bales. Presuming you get windrows right move to step 2.
2. Start the bale by weaving side to side, then about 50' in pick one side and fill it that side until the gauge for that side pegs at the top. Keep filling that side until the other side gauge falls below 3/4. THEN swap sides and repeat. DO NOT leave a side until it packs full and the other side begins to slack, UNLESS the bale light goes off. When it does, fill the low side until the bale finishes.
3. This method has made square shouldered, drum tight bales for me in the past.
If you have had the baler a while and know what you're doing I apologize for wasting your time.
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Re: J D 535 Round Baler
[Re: WhitetailsWood]
#1345389
05/06/15 04:48 PM
05/06/15 04:48 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 339 Jackson Co
Mason85
4 point
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4 point
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 339
Jackson Co
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The gate has a latch on either side. These are shimmable to a point to take up wear in the latches. Roll one up to the point of tying and see if there is a gap in the gate. If so add the amount of gap via shim into the latch. This could be your problem. We have a 435 and doing this really tightened up our bales.
Last edited by Mason85; 05/06/15 04:50 PM.
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Re: J D 535 Round Baler
[Re: WhitetailsWood]
#1345481
05/07/15 02:55 AM
05/07/15 02:55 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,217 Satsuma, AL
Robert D.
12 point
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12 point
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,217
Satsuma, AL
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I assure you, your not wasting my time lol I have spent two days working on this thing and having 80 acres on the ground! But I'm not new to this, been doing it awhile an man I just can't figure this one out..... I've took both tension hydraulic arms off and had checked... I've put a new relief valve in that you set the density with on the tougue of baler... I've even put the whole box on the tougue ... its got brand to belts.. all my chains r good.. and I know its not the hook up on my tractor because I hooked to another baler to it just to see. Have you closed the baler then unhooked the hoses and made a bale? It will for sure tell you if its the baler or tractor. I'm stumped really. Unless the gate opening cylinders are bad I don't know what else it could be. Everybody I knew that was really good with these has retired. You MIGHT try Rod at Sunsouth in Demopolis. (334)289-5966 and ask him. Tell him Robert said for him to call Willie and ask what's wrong.
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