Imperial Clover Field this year and WMS field from last year. The WMS field pic was taken less than 3 weeks after we planted, and if I remember correctly we had one decent rain and that was about it. Even though my dirt was mad at me for running a disc, she still managed to grow some pretty decent stands.

Excellent plots Rob.

Anyone tried Modelo beer? They’re pretty damn tasty. Kind of like a better version of a Corona to me. They’ve got a helluva kick too. Start going down like water after just a few of ‘em.

2Dogs…..You are exactly correct. I have some of the absolute worst soil in the state. Its nearly pure sand and has almost zero holding capacity for moisture and nutrients. Unfortunately in the state of Alabama….really crappy soil tends to be the rule and not the exception and there’s nothing you do to change your soil type. These kind of soils are very unforgiving and sometimes it can be hard to get anything to even grow in these type conditions, much less thrive. Add in high deer densities and it leaves many people scratching their heads as to just why they can’t grow plots like they see other people growing.

Then you have guys like you who are blessed with some of the best soil in the state. These soils have very high nutrient and water holding capacities and are capable of growing good plots regardless of the method used and despite the fact the you have no clue as to why. You don’t even know how to interpret a soil test but because you go throw out some seed along with a few hundred pounds of 13-13-13 and it works…..you’re quick to jump into a conversation such as this like you’re a master farmer….again, despite the fact you don’t have the least understanding of soil science.

I have taken some of the least productive soil you could have and I’ve turned it around and made it a productive plot that’s capable of withstanding the browsing pressure of a high density deer population. I post these threads because I know there are many folks out there with crappy soil just like mine who would like to know how they can improve their situation. It’s fine if you want to be my antagonist and just spend your time figuring out how to be a bigger azzhat….but if you would take a moment to stop and listen then you may not have to have your farmer buddies keep reading your soil test’s for you.

You need to look upstream , I hadn't posted a word, you posted a question to me, pal.

I've got a understanding of deer, I'm not huntin' dirt.

You're a one trick pony. I think you need to start your own website, aldirt.com.

talk about the pot calling the kettle black… CNC, if you would take a moment and stop and listen you would see that "most" people on this site are 110% content with their foodplots and probably don't like people (you) telling them what they are doing is inferior to what you are doing. If you have crappy soil and your throw and mow tactics work for you, then great, but I've seen what you use, seen your pictures, and frankly I'm not overly impressed. As for your comment about "most" places in AL. having terrible soil…I would agree that "some" places have bad soil, but I've hunted in at least 10 Counties in Al. and have never seen issues with growing foodplots. Sure some areas, especially several years ago, had too many deer, but I don't care how you get a foodplot to grow, if you have 20 deer eating on an acre foodplot every day (no browse or mass crop), the plot is going to get eaten down.

See, CNC, if a hunter's foodplot is bringing deer in and feeding the deer through out the year (9-10 months of the year) and they are killing deer on or around the foodplots then they have achieved what they set out to do. I have no doubt you know more about soil than I do, but so what? How does that make you a better hunter than me or anyone else, or put you in a better position to kill a good buck each season? we could all go read a bunch of info. on dirt, just like you did, but I guess the point is, why should we? Most of us would still be spraying, discing and broadcasting seed and getting better results with less seed… As for the few on here that obviously like your methods, good for you for helping them, but just understand that everyone isn't going to agree with you, and that doesn't make them dumb… The guy you basically called an idiot, 2Dogs, has some of the best hunting property in the state. He's in a great area, but he's also created some of the best deer habitat in Jackson Co. and has killed some dang good bucks. If that is irrelevant to you, then you might want to go and join a gardening website.

Easy TD. I wouldn't know about some of the best in the state. It's just ol' NE Bama land with a little enhancement. It does suit my requirements. Ya'll ain't doing so bad yourselves. Love those pics of your plots with the mountain in the background. Looks mighty good.

Are y'all two just going to take turns giving each other reach arounds all night?

Jealous people.

We might just hook up the disk and go for a ride on the big green tractor.

Hey this belongs in the qdma forum.

Signed, 49er

I don't care one way or the other but I got shitty soil too and am glad to try anything that might help.

Just disk in lime and fertilizer. People don't realize how critical lime is. Don't cut corners. Any poor ground can be made better by doing simple things.

Each soil has a different holding capacity as it concerns water and nutrients. This is determined by two things…1) The amount of clay content in the soil 2) The amount of organic matter in the soil. The problem with many of us is that we have sandy soils with very, very little clay content. Therefore we don’t have the ability to hold onto anything more than small amounts of water and nutrients. On sandy soils especially, soil moisture is just as vital as any other aspect of soil health. If you don’t have any clay content to begin with, then there is nothing you can ever do to change that. The only way you can effect the holding capacity of your soil is through adding #2….organic matter. I’ve taken the soil in the field here in my pics from a CEC (holding capacity) of 2 to a CEC of 6 through increasing the organic matter. The % organic matter in my soil has gone from 0.5% to 3.6%. You can disk in all the lime and fert you want but if there is nothing in the soil to hold onto them, then it really does you little good. You have to have negatively charged clay or OM particles for the positively charged nutrients to bond to. If you want to improve crappy sandy soil, then one of the best things you can do is to start managing for increased organic matter in your soil.

I use Hydra Hume. It's a Humic acid product. Basically it's like chicken litter in a bag without the stink. That way I don't have to no till. Just disk it in with my fert.

What's the price tag on doing something like that?

It's $1 per lb. On somewhat decent ground use 20 lbs per acre. On new ground such as CRP take in or logging deck establishing use 40 lbs per acre to start then as tilth improves move back to 20lb rate.

…..and you’re saying that someone is going to significantly change their organic matter content by adding 20-40 lbs per acre? You said it was chicken litter in a bag. Chicken litter is applied by the ton. Tell us more about this product. How does it work? If its truly legit...I may be interested in trying it.

What about unrolling some old round bales on your food plots?

Hydra Hume is the refined raw OM that litter provides. It's highly concentrated. We use it on cut ground in Ark and Ms delta rice ground. I've used it a good bit up here in N bama on row crop ground where we get into poor low CEC heavy clay hilltops that just won't grow much. It makes a difference.