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2013 F-150 5.0.

About 2-3 times a year it’ll randomly decide not to start. Turn the key and the starter will spin and it’ll sound like it’s trying not to start, might even sputter a time or two, but won’t fire up.

I know there’s a common problem with Fuse 27 which controls the fuel pump, but I checked the fuse and it’s fine. Even swapped in a different fuse to be sure and no luck. The battery is a couple of years old but it doesn’t act weak or slow to start prior to one of these instances. Last time (back in July) we hooked a jump box to it and it fired right up. This time, a jump box wouldn’t crank it, but a set of jumper cables hooked to wife’s car fired it right up. Drove it home, turned it off and cranked it again and it cranked no problem.

No CEL or anything.

Any ideas? I’m hesitant to blame the battery because like I said, it’s been 5 months since it last happened and no issues since until last night.

I wasn’t too concerned about it until last night when a fully charged jump box wouldn’t crank it but cables did. I’m worried I’ll be hunting or fishing somewhere with bad cell reception and it’ll decide not to start and if the jump box doesn’t work, I’ll be SOL.

I gotta say I'd start with the battery or cables, check your ground, and take you a wire brush to the inside of the cables and clean everything up real good...I dont know why it prefers jumper cables over a jump box... That dont make any sense if the box is good....What'll you take for that ol raggeldy truck anyways?.....

is it throwing any kind of code???

Last time it did it, it gave a code related to the fuel pump. Something about no signal to the fuel pump. I don’t remember specifically which code and haven’t had a chance to look again this time. The code was consistent to the fuse 27 issue though, but like I said the fuse was fine. I may still do the Fuse 27 relocation though. I think the kit is like $15.

Just not sure the Fuse 27 issue could be the culprit if it’s not blown. Typically that problem results in a blown fuse and often even a burnt/melted one

Guessing it was one of the colder days this year when this happened and that could indicate a battery issue.

This time yes…but last time was in July and it was upper-90’s

My work truck is 2019 F250 and it does that from time to time. We’ve had several in our group with the issue but I can’t remember what the mechanics said is the issue. Mine hasn’t done it in a few months

True, but this time the jump box didn't have enough juice but connecting to running vehicle did. I would test the battery cranking amps and see if it is putting out what it says it should.
I usually try to rule out common things first, then work toward less common things.

Roger that. I’ll give it a try

I have a 2013 F-150, 5.0 engine . I carry a code reader ($40.00 at AutoZone). Every time it throws a code I plug reader in and delete the code. Engine "forgets" what it said is wrong and goes on fine. I kid you not. Fkn Fords.

I have same year truck and engine. There are relays in the fuse boxes that can go bad. Try swapping them with any starting related relays.

Reckon you shorted something out when you sunk it in the mud a couple years back?

Replace the relay for the security system and the fuel pump. Check your wiring diagram and see if they are working together on the same circuits.

Ha!

Not the same ford engine but I had a broke crankshaft sensor do the same thing

I was going to say, sounds like when I had a camshaft sensor go bad on me. Some days it would turn over for a while before it would start some days it was fine. Then I w say nothing. Was a pretty easy, <$100 fix

Look into the electronic theft control. My Excursion would do that every so often until I got stuck in NY for 3 days while they figured out there was a wire broken in the steering column that went to the key reader that's around the ignition lock. Look for the theft light to stay on while you're cranking it when it won't start. It's a pretty common problem on Fords. They save money by shortening up the wire leads around parts that move until they stretch far enough to fray and then break. I've added wire to leads for the electric windows because the wire breaks where it comes through the rubber weather hose between the door and the body from opening and closing the door.

Interesting....googled that and all the symptoms check out...

--Difficulty starting [check]
--random stalling [check] - about once a month, it'll randomly stall. Always while I'm sitting at a stop light. as I'm coming to a stop, it'll just idle down until it cuts off, but it ALWAYS cranks right back up
--rough idle (see above...usually happens right before the stall)
--decrease in gas mileage...slightly but I chalked that up to larger tires, older vehicle and pulling a boat more
--only symptom I ]don't have is a Check Engine light

Google says you can check the sensor with a multimeter...would it test bad on a meter even when I'm NOT having a problem, or would I have to put a meter on it while it's actively acting up?

Also, should one expect it to throw a specific code if it acts up due to the crank position sensor?