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I'd like to hear thoughts on handloading on rainy and/or high humidity days, specifically indoors--not outdoors at the range. Do any of y'all specifically avoid loading on rainy/humid days? Do you keep an eye on the humidity level in your house?

I was thinking about rolling some 25-06 today with the new powder dispenser I picked up from @Gundoc, but I've mostly done all my reloading when I lived out west with very low humidity.

Probably overthinking it and I'm sure there are 100 other variables I should probably spend more time thinking about, but just wanted to get a conversation going.

Pics for attention. Also, RIP ole Jake--miss ya buddy!!!

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Freak of Nature
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Hadn’t thought about it but since you mentioned it I’m going to turn the dehumidifier on. Planning on loading some up this evening.


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I've never put much thought into it but I think the reason some bench rest guys load at the range is to load and shoot in same humidity and temps.sooo kinda funny you posted this I'm loading today and was thinking at least I'm loading in the same type environment I'll be hunting in.
I load in my basement probably always humid no HVAC downstairs but I'll probably never see or notice the difference.not sure what else I can do or if matters

Last edited by 3% outdoorsman; 10/30/22 02:21 PM.
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Doesn’t matter


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Originally Posted by 3% outdoorsman
I've never put much thought into it but I think the reason some bench rest guys load at the range is to load and shoot in same humidity and temps.sooo kinda funny you posted this I'm loading today and was thinking at least I'm loading in the same type environment I'll be hunting in.
I load in my basement probably always humid no HVAC downstairs but I'll probably never see or notice the difference.not sure what else I can do or if matters

That too but mostly to keep the rifle in tune for conditions. We usually go up or down on powder charge a few tenths or so depending on the last group and how fast the temp and humidity is changing for the next relay. Sometimes we might change bullet seating depth or neck tension. Many of the shooters load in their motor home under controlled conditions. I never could afford one. I do think that loading under the reloading shed, where the conditions are the same as the firing line, has its advantages. A match is often won or lost where a (5 shot for 5 targets agg ) by group sizes that only vary .050 to .100. I am talking custom benchrest rifles with Kriger, Bartlin, Broughton etc barrel on a Bat, Borden, Stolle etc action. We also use custom seating and sizeing dies. I doubt that would make much difference in factory rifles. That said. I have improved factory rifles by using bushing type FL sizing dies and adjusting to where they size just enough to chamber smoothly. and using a seater that gives me constant seating depth. I seat the bullet about .005 to .010 off the lands

Last edited by stoolshooter; 10/30/22 05:08 PM. Reason: Add
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Originally Posted by stoolshooter
Originally Posted by 3% outdoorsman
I've never put much thought into it but I think the reason some bench rest guys load at the range is to load and shoot in same humidity and temps.sooo kinda funny you posted this I'm loading today and was thinking at least I'm loading in the same type environment I'll be hunting in.
I load in my basement probably always humid no HVAC downstairs but I'll probably never see or notice the difference.not sure what else I can do or if matters

That too but mostly to keep the rifle in tune for conditions. We usually go up or down on powder charge a few tenths or so depending on the last group and how fast the temp and humidity is changing for the next relay. Sometimes we might change bullet seating depth or neck tension. Many of the shooters load in their motor home under controlled conditions. I never could afford one. I do think that loading under the reloading shed, where the conditions are the same as the firing line, has its advantages. A match is often won or lost where a (5 shot for 5 targets agg ) by group sizes that only vary .050 to .100. I am talking custom benchrest rifles with Kriger, Bartlin, Broughton etc barrel on a Bat, Borden, Stolle etc action. We also use custom seating and sizeing dies. I doubt that would make much difference in factory rifles. That said. I have improved factory rifles by using bushing type FL sizing dies and adjusting to where they size just enough to chamber smoothly. and using a seater that gives me constant seating depth. I seat the bullet about .005 to .010 off the lands

Awesome.thx for posting..so guess you would be lowering powder charge most time as temps raise?bench rest folks are over the top no doubt 😄

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Hey stoolshooter how do you handle having brass of various manufacters for hunting rifles? Obviously batch them together for same brand name but do you just run them all through same bushing diameter?or how do you handle that.brass being scarce now?I would assume just size them for the bushing you use for your Lapua or whatever you have most of? Or have a few different bushings to accommodate different brass thickness

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Freak of Nature
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Multiple bushings for different brass.


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I learned a long time ago to stock up on quality brass for whatever calibers that I had. Thats because what you need often becomes unavailable, I do not use mixed brass. I sometimes cull some of the brass that I have. If the necks arent straight after the 2nd fireform, out they go, I also sort by weight which is only necessary to get out those that are really heavy or light. I take a light neck turn, Just enough to clean up about 3/4 of the way around. It is not good to turn any more than that for factory chambers because they are a little loose anyway. I always uniform the primer pockets because consistent ignition is conducive to good accuracy. I do have more than one sizing bushing for all calibers but most of my brass came from the same lot numbers. That light pass with my neck turner (i have one for each caliber because they are hard to reset). then the necks are consistent, and that sizing bushing works on all. As you can tell, Im anal about accuracy

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In addition, if something in not quite right, I can usually feel it on my set up when Im sizing or seating

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I’ve interchanged brass brands for years in my hunting rifles with regular full length sizing dies with zero accuracy issues. I haven’t seen the need for bushings in my reloading efforts.


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Im very happy for you

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It’s reloading…it ain’t hard. People make it hard.


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Originally Posted by stoolshooter
I learned a long time ago to stock up on quality brass for whatever calibers that I had. Thats because what you need often becomes unavailable, I do not use mixed brass. I sometimes cull some of the brass that I have. If the necks arent straight after the 2nd fireform, out they go, I also sort by weight which is only necessary to get out those that are really heavy or light. I take a light neck turn, Just enough to clean up about 3/4 of the way around. It is not good to turn any more than that for factory chambers because they are a little loose anyway. I always uniform the primer pockets because consistent ignition is conducive to good accuracy. I do have more than one sizing bushing for all calibers but most of my brass came from the same lot numbers. That light pass with my neck turner (i have one for each caliber because they are hard to reset). then the necks are consistent, and that sizing bushing works on all. As you can tell, Im anal about accuracy

Thanks alot for info exactly what I was looking for.over the years I end up with this and that brand of brass and was wondering how to handle that with bushing dies or even the Lee collet dies I've been using.good info
I'd love to have a pile of same lot brass but hate to chunk brass for hunting rifles.thx the light neck turn makes sense also

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Originally Posted by AU338MAG
Multiple bushings for different brass.

That's initially what I was thinking.batch as much of same brass together then use bushing to match

Last edited by 3% outdoorsman; 10/30/22 10:07 PM.
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Originally Posted by N2TRKYS
It’s reloading…it ain’t hard. People make it hard.

It's like anything else.soon as you think you know everything you find out you don't know nothing

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Originally Posted by AU338MAG
Multiple bushings for different brass.

So you have decapper pin removed how do you determine which bushing to use along with mandrel die diameter?

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Sounds like y’all are comparing apples to oranges. I’m not sure that hitting a deer .10-.05 off from where you were aiming will make much of a difference. But when it comes to trying to keep it in that X ring….. Some folks will go that extra mile for the “W”. I don’t go through all that trouble in my reloading but I can certainly appreciate someone that does.

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Originally Posted by 3% outdoorsman
Originally Posted by N2TRKYS
It’s reloading…it ain’t hard. People make it hard.

It's like anything else.soon as you think you know everything you find out you don't know nothing


Keep working at it, you’ll get it. Getting too deep in the weeds gets alot of folks.


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Originally Posted by 3% outdoorsman
Originally Posted by AU338MAG
Multiple bushings for different brass.

So you have decapper pin removed how do you determine which bushing to use along with mandrel die diameter?

I dont remove the decapper pin. Here is my procedure: (for hunting rifles) I take a case that has been fireformed at least 2x. I put the stoney point (now Hornady) tool on my calibers and measure the headspace. I screw the sizing die enough to bump the shoulders back about . .003 (when the brass gets used a lot, you will have to lower the sizing die a tad because of spring back). I then lube and resize the case and push the primer out at the same time. If you plan on using a neck turner (and insist on using mixed brass): you can use the same resizing bushing. Measure the thinnest neck, set your neck turner to where it almost cleans up all the way around, (There is a variation in neck thickness even in the best brass. ) Then when you turn your thickest brass, it will take more off but they will all be the same and that bushing will work for all cases. Shoot me a PM and I will give you my email

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