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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,780
10 point
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10 point
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,780 |
Looking for some help with an old Ford 3910 tractor. Was bushhogging the other day when I began noticing that the front was beginning to get a little harder to turn. I figured the fluid was probably low. Fast forward to taking the bush hog off the 3 pt and the 3pt arms went all the way up in a locked position. No matter what I attempted I could not get them to go back down. I was crunched for time, and didn’t have much time to fool with it so I parked it in the barn and left. I did some inter web researching on what could be going on. Any of you fellas had anything similar to this? Seemed to be a lot of play and little resistance in the control lever.
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,253
8 point
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8 point
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,253 |
I can assume it an hydraulic issue. I would start by changing the hydraulic filter and checking the oil level. Have no clue outside of that. But as good as of place as any to start. Maybe someone who knows more than I do about will chime in. Good luck and keep us posted on what your fix was
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 4,938
12 point
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12 point
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 4,938 |
What bcd said could be a stuck valve in the hydraulics. I would check or change the fluid and filter first if that don't work I'd call the man
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Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 27,316 Likes: 252
Pumpkin - The Thermal Expert
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Pumpkin - The Thermal Expert
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 27,316 Likes: 252 |
Two stage clutch will cause that too. Itll act just like the hydraulic pump went out but the clutch works the pump, or works off of it. But your tractor might not have a two stage clutch
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,908 Likes: 2
14 point
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14 point
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,908 Likes: 2 |
I don't have a 3910 but I have worked on lots of Ford Tractors. You have 2 separate hydraulic systems for the steering and lift on the hitch. I don't think these are related. The steering is self contained with pump on the port side from the operating seat. Check cylinder, steering column and hoses for leaks... then check fluid level and ensure you are using the proper fluid. Then change fluid and replace filter. Then replace pump. There isn't much to the steering on that machine. It has the valve, the pump/reservoir and cylinder. That's it. Doubt it's the column/valve but it is possible I'd check that last. The seal at the top of the column goes bad and is common but that would be identified in Step 1.
Rear lift stuck up.... When you show back up it will either be sitting there still up or will have bled down. If DOWN... Check lift control linkage for proper operation in movement... i.e. look for anything bent, etc and make sure you are getting what appears to be full range of motion going into the machine via the linkage. If this is loose and just flopping do the next step but afterwards look for an inspection cover and see if you can pull it off and see what is going on with the linkage . There is a valve under the seat to adjust the lift speed. Move it in/out a few turns could have some junk stuck. You might be fine here if when you go back... it works ok, then consider a fluid/filter change 1st. If you continue to have issues its' the unloader valve and you'll have to pull the top cover and fix it. Not a big deal but pulling the cover is best done with an cherry picker so not a serious problem but might take a Saturday to fix. I would re-build the cover while I had it off I'm talking about just a $50 O-ring kit. If you go back out there and it it still stuck in the up position probably the rockshaft got some rusty junk going on with the bearing and is hung. Doubt that. If so come back.
On both these there is a hydraulic test port and it pays to have a set of gauges then you can tell if the pumps are good/bad or there is some restriction. Cheap set of gauges off Amazon for $50 work well enough for checking out a machine. I always get lucky with pumps and they tell me they are going south when they start to whine same as when there is low fluid. But they can blow a seal too. Doesn't sound like your issue here.
That should get you going at least. These are near bulletproof tractors with no electronics and very simple systems.... so don't get frustrated this is a simple fix only question is the time involved. Might just be a fluid/filter change.
No government employees were harmed in the making of this mess.
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,780
10 point
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10 point
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,780 |
Thanks goat killer, great information. I think the most frustrating part was I didn’t have the time to try and figure it out. So now it’ll be a trip to try to get things going in the right direction.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,323
8 point
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8 point
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,323 |
Agree with GoatKiller. I have had the top cover off of mine to rebuild the top cover and fix a stupid mistake by the previous owner that was keeping my lift lever from working. The top cover is stout and a cherry picker makes it much easier to slowly move into position when putting it back together.
Jeremy
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,794 Likes: 38
12 point
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12 point
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,794 Likes: 38 |
Agree with goatkill. The relief cartridge valve under the seat may need unscrewed and cleaned
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 743
4 point
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4 point
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 743 |
I don't have a 3910 but I have worked on lots of Ford Tractors. You have 2 separate hydraulic systems for the steering and lift on the hitch. I don't think these are related. The steering is self contained with pump on the port side from the operating seat. Check cylinder, steering column and hoses for leaks... then check fluid level and ensure you are using the proper fluid. Then change fluid and replace filter. Then replace pump. There isn't much to the steering on that machine. It has the valve, the pump/reservoir and cylinder. That's it. Doubt it's the column/valve but it is possible I'd check that last. The seal at the top of the column goes bad and is common but that would be identified in Step 1.
Rear lift stuck up.... When you show back up it will either be sitting there still up or will have bled down. If DOWN... Check lift control linkage for proper operation in movement... i.e. look for anything bent, etc and make sure you are getting what appears to be full range of motion going into the machine via the linkage. If this is loose and just flopping do the next step but afterwards look for an inspection cover and see if you can pull it off and see what is going on with the linkage . There is a valve under the seat to adjust the lift speed. Move it in/out a few turns could have some junk stuck. You might be fine here if when you go back... it works ok, then consider a fluid/filter change 1st. If you continue to have issues its' the unloader valve and you'll have to pull the top cover and fix it. Not a big deal but pulling the cover is best done with an cherry picker so not a serious problem but might take a Saturday to fix. I would re-build the cover while I had it off I'm talking about just a $50 O-ring kit. If you go back out there and it it still stuck in the up position probably the rockshaft got some rusty junk going on with the bearing and is hung. Doubt that. If so come back.
On both these there is a hydraulic test port and it pays to have a set of gauges then you can tell if the pumps are good/bad or there is some restriction. Cheap set of gauges off Amazon for $50 work well enough for checking out a machine. I always get lucky with pumps and they tell me they are going south when they start to whine same as when there is low fluid. But they can blow a seal too. Doesn't sound like your issue here.
That should get you going at least. These are near bulletproof tractors with no electronics and very simple systems.... so don't get frustrated this is a simple fix only question is the time involved. Might just be a fluid/filter change. Dang good info right here. Goatkiller, if I didn’t know any better I’d think you was a Huddleston. 😁😁
A friend, the Bible and a banker will get you though about anything.
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