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#2669391 12/11/18 11:55 AM
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Anyone have any suggestions on someone that works on Honda ATV on the side? I have a 99 Honda 300 that needs some work. Montgomery, AL area. Thanks.

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What's wrong with it? Electrical or mechanical or don't know yet?

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Not totally sure. You have to use the "pressure release" lever on the front of it to try to start it. Some times it starts and runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then, wont restart. Every time you go to crank it, you have to raise that pressure release lever on the front of the engine. For a while, when it was running, you had to adjust the choke lever to get it running smooth. Have owned for over 15 yrs. Been a great machine. Just don't know if it is shot, or is worth fixing.

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Just some information from working on my 1999 Honda 450: Having to adjust the choke to keep it running would be related to the carb. If you need to use the choke for smooth idle and to keep it running as power is released that would imply the idle jet is clogged (gas is using choke bypass rather than idle jet). If it backfires when you release the gas that is related to a valve&tube on the carb. If it never backfired a new carb rebuild kit would smooth out the issues you mentioned with fuel delivery.

Using the compression lever to start is something I believe you always do when you manually crank it (I believe the 300 had a kick starter, I had a 300 and remember the kick starter would kick back pretty hard if you forgot to use the pressure release valve). If you are having to use that lever for battery crank then I am not sure (maybe a weak battery or starter issue), the compression release valve I believe kicks off after the engine turns one cycle regardless of whether it cranks. Since it is not cranking at all a carb rebuild ($20 kit) would get it running. For future storage since you never know when it may be used again turn the gas to the off position and run it out of fuel to remove all the gas from the carb.

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Thanks for the advice. Just ordered a carb kit from Amazon. Will try that first.

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McClendon service center in downtown. Does good work for cheap.

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Thanks, if the carb doesn't work, I will take to McClendon....thanks for the suggestion.

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you may not even need a rebuild kit dirt can get in it and clog up the jets from the vent hose I used to have to take mine apart and just blow everything out really good and it was good as new
mine would not run unless choke was on and would backfire at WOT cleaning it fixed it everytime. and don't run ethanol it eats the rubber on the needle valve.

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Yeah, I had put ethanol in it a few times. Learned that lesson the hard way.

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Grumpy Old Man
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Originally Posted by Fatherof4
Yeah, I had put ethanol in it a few times. Learned that lesson the hard way.

It's called a compression release, that little lever on the engine head.
And yes, it's ethanol poisoning, and it will probably require a new carburetor. I doubt if a carb kit will fix it. That's still not going to eliminate all the problems of ethanol poison however. You have likely scarred the cylinder walls, cracked a piston, seized rings or burnt valves.
Ethanol has zero lubrication and the friction heat can cause irreversible damage in just a few minutes. Most people simply don't comprehend the amount of damage that can be done, to small air cooled engines, with only a tiny bit of ethanol.


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Try the carb replacement route. I ordered a new Honda carb for my 2002 model off ebay. It bolted right on and cured all my issues. It was running like a new machine afterwards.

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Old Mossy Horns
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I don't run anything but non ethanol thru my Polaris Ranger and Honda Rancher. Run much better and no carb problems since.

Dr. B


AKA: “Dr. B”
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Originally Posted by bamaeyedoc
I don't run anything but non ethanol thru my Polaris Ranger and Honda Rancher. Run much better and no carb problems since.

Dr. B

when I quit running ethanol I quit having to rebuild carbs every 3 years. got a lawn mower that's been running almost 15 years never one carb problem I don't even have to change the oil anymore it burns so much it gets swapped out from topping off lol between lawnmower, weedeater, chainsaw, blower, atv, 25hp outboard, and a go cart I haven't touched a carb in over 10 years

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Dang, It's my own fault, I did have a can of ethanol gas and I have put it in there. I did change my order on Amazon and bought a new carb. We will see if that works.....The engine does have a bad "tick" in it....I knew better. Hate this ethanol crap....Thanks again for the advice.

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Originally Posted by Fatherof4
Dang, It's my own fault, I did have a can of ethanol gas and I have put it in there. I did change my order on Amazon and bought a new carb. We will see if that works.....The engine does have a bad "tick" in it....I knew better. Hate this ethanol crap....Thanks again for the advice.

when's the last time valves were adjusted? that could be your tick

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Never been adjusted.

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Never been adjusted.

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Don't want to derail the thread, but does anyone know if the 2001 rancher has a clutch adjustment? It has started slipping if you give it the gas while under a load. And this machine has been used daily since new on the farm hauling things, checking cows, etc... Thanks in advance


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Originally Posted by HHSyelper
Don't want to derail the thread, but does anyone know if the 2001 rancher has a clutch adjustment? It has started slipping if you give it the gas while under a load. And this machine has been used daily since new on the farm hauling things, checking cows, etc... Thanks in advance

Find the adjustment screw/locknut on the front of the engine. it should be at about 11 o'clock of the shifter you should see arrows above it that say "increase/decrease". With the engine COLD, loosen the lock nut and turn the screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until you feel slight resistance. Then back it out 1/4 turn CLOCKWISE, and hold the screw while you retighten the nut.

Last edited by GKelly; 12/12/18 11:50 AM.
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Thank you very much. Aldeer comes through again.


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