Aldeer.com Forums Alabama Deer Talk Aldeer Bow Talk Fixed blade broadheads

This is a question for all of the experienced bow hunters. I have been bowhunting for almost 20 years and have always used muzzy 3-blade and have always had the problem with them shooting low right from fieldpoints. I usually shoot a dozen arrows to find 3 or 4 that will group with broadheads. Is there any fixed blade broadheads that perform better as far as grouping. With technology surely someone has solved this problem. Someone mentioned in a previous post about muzzys flying great as long as they are "tuned". How do you "tune" a broadhead. Please, no comments about expandables. I am not interested. Thanks.

look to the left at the drop down, select BOWS BOWS BOWS. There's an article.

You need to tune (adjust) your rest and/or nocking point to get your blades to hit with your field points. To fix your problem, you need to move your rest up and to the left. Do this in very small increments until you get your broadheads grouping with your fieldpoints. You'll notice with each correction, that your broadhead group moves further than your fieldpoint group. Keep at it and they will eventually come together, but might not be in the bullseye. Then, all you need to do is adjust your sights and you'll be set. Look at this...



Also, spin test those muzzys to make sure they're straight. No fixed blade head will group well if it wobbles. CD.

go to Shaw's thread Bow's,Bow's,Bow's..will explain what to do..

Slick Tricks and G5 Strykers will fly as good or better than any other fixed heads on the market (including Muzzies). However, it still sounds like you've got some tuning, and/or form, and/or arrow construction issues going on.

Your comment saying that you have to shoot a dozen to find 3 or 4 that will group with broadheads (by this I assume you mean 3 or 4 that will group together relative to each other, not necessarily that they will hit with your field points?) points toward arrow construction issues to me. If you build your own arrows, buy yourself a G5 ASD (arrow squaring device) and square up each end of the cut shaft and then also square the face of the insert. If you don't build your own arrows, then make sure the place you buy them from uses one. If the broadhead itself is straight and all surfaces of the arrow are square, then the arrow will most likely spin true and eliminate the wobble that CD mentioned (could still have the unequal amount of glue on the insert issue that Shaw mentions in the aforementioned article, but I don't run into this scenario very often myself as the inserts are pretty close in diameter to the ID of the shafts).

As for the tuning of your bow, CD's comments concerning rest adjustment maybe just the ticket for getting your broadheads to hit with your field points, but that adjustment alone may just be a patch to cover up other problems if they exist (fletching contact, arrow spine, form issues including but not limited to face contact, bowhand torque, etc.

If I were you, I would post up the specs on your bow and arrows and let Shaw and company troubleshoot for you a little bit.

Good luck!

Thanks for the replies. I will read the article shortly. I don't think it is bow or shooting form issues, I can stack field points all day and once I find arrows that group with muzzies, I have no problem with those specific arrows. It may be arrow issues that are exagerated with broadheads.

FYI - being able to stack field points means nothing when it comes to accurately shooting fixed blade broadheads (i.e. getting them to hit with field points). Field points have basically no aerodynamic profile, hence the fletchings can consistently correct the arrow's flight even if it comes off the bow with a kick at the back end of the arrow. That's not the case with a fixed broadhead because the blades will present surface area to the passing air to force the arrow off target. Though I agree you probably have some individual arrow issues, you certainly ALSO have something else going on. It could be as simple as a rest or nocking point adjustment, but it COULD be something more as well.

Thanks Jughead. I had not thought about the fletchings correcting the field tips and not the broadheads. It is hard to convey everything clear when writing, but once I find 3 or 4 arrows that group good, I have no problems grouping those arrows. This leads me to the conclusion that it is maybe an arrow issue. I have hunted for many years, killed many deer, and had many different bows and many different arrows, but always the same problem. I have shot Hoyt bows until this year and purchased a Matthews DXT. Still like Hoyt bows but am impressed with the Matthews. I have always had my bow tuned, paper tuned, ect... but have not spent much time tuning arrows or making sure they are correct. I may need to take my arrows with broadheads to the bow shop and do some paper tuning. I have shot feathers and vanes. I think I can solve the arrow problem, but still would like to find some broadheads that shoot the same as field tips. As much technology as is in the bow industry, this seems like it would have been accomplished without having to shoot mechanicals (just too many things that can go wrong). It is just a pain practicing with field tips all summer, getting your sights tuned in perfectly out to 50 yards, and then having to reset your bow for broadheads (maybe I should just practice with broadheads?? expensive on targets)). It is something I will continue to do it if neccessary, it would just be nice not to have to. Thanks again for all of your help.