Aldeer.com Forums Alabama Deer Talk Quality Deer Management Which food plot seed/brand ?

What seed mixture and brand would you all advise me to plant for a small food plot for deer on my land ?

I'm seriously thinking of changing from my usual winter wheat plots to one of the mixtures of seeds made for deer plots this year.

The soil is rich sandy loam and was plowed in early June. There are morning glory weeds present...but they're kinda sparse. I'll hoe them down and will have to plant via hand tools this year, as my tiller is broken. I'm thinking of planting 2 plots of the advised size above, maybe a bit larger, about 350 yards apart for mid-winter bow hunting. The area was limed back in February...but is still slightly acidic. I will fertilize the plot sites soon.

Any suggestions on a specific seed mixture for deer in Alabama, (and very importantly) which brand to buy, will be greatly appreciated. I'm confused due to all the various brands/mixtures offered in tv ads. Thank you.

mission

Gulf Ryegrass and maybe a little "AU Robin" crimson clover. (wink-wink)

We've had good results with Rackmaster blends and the Evolved Harvest blends. Add lime if too acidic.

Okay, thanks much, fellows....much obliged for the replies. I'll look for these brands to plant. I'll add more Lime asap for better pH, rackadddict. I can plant some rye around the 'mixture plot' for added attraction, Shuter.

I'm thinking of making the plots a little larger than I said yesterday. I scouted out the area yesterday and I think I need a longer and and more winding plot configuration for the deer to feel more secure when browsing.

Questions, please: I'm very familiar with planting winter wheat and rye. (farmed 12 acres for 40 years) If I plant Rackmaster, E. Harvest, when is the optimal time to plant these brands ? I planted winter wheat/rye in early to mid-Sept. (I know to plant just before a rain if I can.) I live in Elmore Co.

Does mixtures of seed like Rackmaster or E. Harvest require (very) deeper plowed ground than, say, winter wheat/rye to prosper ? The ground was plowed in June as stated, but it has settled back down. It is still loose and isn't hard ground...from the drought/dry spells..or the few rains.

Fertilizing: is a general 8-8-8 granular fertilizer okay, if I apply it say >> 2 weeks before planting<< ? And, is a 2nd fertilizer application necessary/mandatory after the young plants leaf out ?

I'm new to food plot seed mixtures for deer. Please excuse my asking so many questions and taking up your time.

I'm much obliged for any help/advice.

mission

Mid late Sept is good. Approx 1/4" depth.
We use trip 13 fetilizer. Sounds like you are doing fine.

I've read both the sites (Ev. Harvest/Pennington seed) and really like Evolved Harvest's annual mixtures 'Thro and Gro' and 'Easy Plot.' Both seem well suited for my idea...and the prolonged growing and sweetening-up of the sugars later in colder weather seems good. I can broadcast rye/winter wheat on the perimeter of the plot proper.

I'm also thinking of planting a perennial plot in a dedicated area I can attend/amend as needed. This will help augment the health of (these smaller/smaller racked) sand hill deer during high stress time. Later this Fall I'll plant fruit trees in several areas to help out the deer herd.

I own a relatively small area to hunt/enjoy wildlife, but I make sure I thank God everyday for the privilege of what I do have. Small hunting areas can and do make excellent hunting areas if managed with care. (micro-managed, as Chuck Sykes 'the Management Advantage' often states) I love to watch his show...and it is my favorite !

My plans are to turn my place into a small bow hunting paradise for deer and turkey, and to help out all other game and non-game animals. They need all the help they can get in these dry sand hills.

You oughta at least spring for the Passurel or Marshall Ryegrass.

Heck, I might as well put in 3 acres or so.

25lbs of Ryegrass drilled per acre or 35 broadcast for cattle, maybe more for a food plot. I don't plant ryegrass for deer like Shuter does, only because up here on the mountain it doesn't start growing until February. I mostly plant Rye (grain) and maybe some wheat too. In food plots, I plant it thick. 125-150lbs per acre. If you can find 20/20 Rye, it's an improved variety that produces more forage. AL farmers co-ops carry that variety, but there is a shortage of seed this year. Abruzzi Rye does well too, it's not as vigorous as 20/20 but it does fine, it's a variety that's been around a looong time.

You better roundup that morning glory or it'll take over everything in that plot.

Thanks, man. Much obliged.

I'll get the Morning Glory vines soon.

I'm adding wood ashes to finalize/optimize a neutral pH on the plot. There is a burn pile close by two of the plots.

I bought some Evolved Harvest 'Throw and Gro' (perennial plot) and 'ShotPlot' mixtures yesterday at Walmart. The feed stores didn't have the mixtures; only winter wheat, etc.

The weeds and debris have been dealt with and I'm ready to plant after TS Lee passes.

I'm planting 3 plots this year. Two small plots (aprox. 100' x 10' each) will be in tucked away areas near cover and nearby woods; and the third, the largest at 1/4 acre, will be in an open field. With the soil hopefully moist...I'll add fertilizer before planting---and fertilize again after the plants reach 4-5" tall. If all goes as planned, it should work....and I can choose a plot to hunt according to the wind direction. Plus, I'll lower the chances of being patterned by the deer via hunting only one plot day after day.

I prefer the soil tilled 6-8" deep but 2/3 of the areas are inaccessible to machinery. I have a tilled soil depth of 3."

The plots will be potentially good bow hunting plots---and more importantly, good management plots to help out the deer in late winter. I actually place more emphasis on the latter.

look up buck buster it works great when you have acid soils.and requires a lot less fertilizer

Roger, that...rem-one. Will do. Thanks.

The plots should be ready to plant after all the rain. I'm actually getting a little enthused about this year's bow hunting season...with the new food plots, etc. And the thought of helping the local deer herd into early spring with a perennial plot is extremely satisfying.

I have (4 year) established salt licks, a spin feeder station, temporary mineral stations, dug watering holes, sprayed fertilizer on volunteer weeds the deer eat, planted 6 pear trees...w/2 30-plus year old pear trees established and producing, fertilized my Laurel (white oak specie), and have good sanctuary nearby. The land is in it's 1st year of a clear cutting and I'm seeing more does than I ever have.

I found a 4th spot for a food plot on the hill. The weeds are scant because it is located in a former pine thicket...and pine straw still covers the ground. The debris from the timber cutting was pushed away and this will ease up the labor. It's 50 yards L x 20 yards W, runs due north to south and gets sunshine all day.

Does pine straw lower the soil pH significantly ? (eg., azaleas prefer an acid soil; and pine straw is recommended for a ground cover for azaleas, as I recall)

What is the quickest way to bring up the pH on this future plot's soil?

My sons readily volunteered and are doing/have done all the plot work for me. They're hard working young men...and I'm very proud of them. Doc replied, "no" (nicely but sternly) when I asked him if I could help w/any of the field work. I'm heeding his advice.

The fastest way that I know to raise the pH of soil is to apply Basic Slag. If you cut it in, it should take effect very quickly. It has many micronutrients in it also. It costs about the same as bagged lime. I am not sure what the application rate, compared with lime is.

Thanks, furflyin.

We cleared most of the debris from this latest plot Friday and yesterday. I'm trying to get it ready asap. It may be too late for optimally neutralizing the pH so quickly for this Fall plot but I'm going to try. Deer are already checking out the 'new ground.' (tracks everywhere)

This will be a Brassicas plot....flat place w/good drainage on a high hill bordering nearby woods and good trails. The soil is a rich, sandy loam. I knocked down strands of a barbed wire fence down to make it easier for the deer to cross. (I found too much deer hair on the barbs.) Trail cam (Red Six) took 42 pics of 3-4 does night before last.

Off subject: I'm seeing some VERY tiny deer hoof prints...fawns. One doe still appears to be pregnant. Late breeding I suppose ?

Plot # 1, 1/5th acre, planted and ready to germinate. We have a 40% chance of rain on Thursday...so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. (clover, turnips, tet. rye, rape)

The entire plot was turned up w/a shovel, debris hand removed, and the seed bed smoothed by lowering the deck on my riding lawn mower and making passes. I broadcast the seed from a coffee creamer bottle and lightly packed the seed w/my lawn tractor tires. (worked well) It's very dusty and I didn't want to plant the small seed too deep. There was good moisture 2" down...need the rain, though.

Now...on to prepare plots #'s 2 and 3....two 30 yard sq. plots of winter wheat bordered by brassicas.

(9 days total work...@ 3-4 hrs./day)

miion

Plant a legume in the plots next summer... They will help replinish soil nutrients. Some sort of forage soybeans will be good, just don't forget your innoculant.

I'm not a huge fan of fancy mixtures that cost an arm and a leg. Every bag of seed (even the fancy bags) has a label of contents and percentages. You'll come out a lot cheaper if you make your own mix. Just my two cents

If you can make the initial investment and get it established clover is your best bet. Let it head out, mow high enough to knock the heads off, let it reseed it self. If you take care of it you can get 3 years out of it. They make certian selective chemicals to help keep.the weeds out of the plot. You local county agent can help depending on what you plant

Good info, and thanks for posting it, tndrchkn. I took notes and will do. I'll do my very best to take care of it...and will see Mr. Beauchamp, County Agent, for advise when needed.

I'll probably buy/make up my own mixture next time. I agree with you and all. I'd like to make 2 acres into plots for hunting and management in coming years. If I had a neighbor with a tractor I could hire/trade out something with, to plow it properly, I'd be set.

My 4 underground water springs I dug furnished water throughout the entire summer drought. They never dried up...but one did slow down producing water for a while. (we rec' 2-3 small to moderate rains only, all summer) These springs had to help the deer, turkey and all wildlife. I located places near the bottom of hill (1000' altitude sand hill) with canes and ferns growing around. I dug down about 2.5' to 2.5' and began hitting veins of water. I then cut a run-off channel on the downhill side of the springs to pool water below them. It made a little pond of water. (good info for folks needing watering holes on their land) You can dig them on a hill, or the side of a hill, but you have to dig much deeper. Look for plants that grow around wetter areas (cane, ferns, etc.)...and look for large tree roots growing on the surface...and you'll find water in underground springs.

I'm starting out again this morning. Have 2 more plots to do. Hope it rains !