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#4461553 05/28/26 06:19 AM
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What are people paying to have a water line trenched in? Trenched and covered up? Price breakdown? Did it include pipe, what size, etc?

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K
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No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.


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Fancy
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10 years ago I priced running a water line from the road to our residence and it was enough that I went to Winfield Rentals, got a trencher and ran it myself. Came out way ahead.

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GUVNER
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Not counting the trench and the pipe, you should also check what the tie-in to city/county water is. If its already your own line then its not an issue. If you have to tie in then they might want a "certified" plumber on their list to do the tie in.


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14 point
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Dude up the road does like, $1.25-2.25/ft. I just dug it with a shovel


"I dont quit.. And ill fight alone if i have to"
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14 point
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You got a meter set?


"I dont quit.. And ill fight alone if i have to"
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Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
You got a meter set?

Yes

Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
Dude up the road does like, $1.25-2.25/ft. I just dug it with a shovel

Actually cheaper than I expected.

Originally Posted by k bush
No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.


I installed a bunch of water line years ago. I shot for about 16-18 inches in south central Alabama. Before the freezer line but not too deep.

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C
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Originally Posted by k bush
No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.

Good info....I have over 2 miles of private water line and its something else trying to find leaks!!

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If you want to make it simple, cut the trench, run a pipe as a conduit and run the water line through the pipe. That way if there is every a leak or break, you can just run new pipe thru the conduit.

Certainly this isn't the cheapest route, but that is what we did with our irrigation lines we added for planters at work.

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14 point
14 point
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Originally Posted by rutwad
Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
You got a meter set?

Yes

Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
Dude up the road does like, $1.25-2.25/ft. I just dug it with a shovel

Actually cheaper than I expected.

Originally Posted by k bush
No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.


I installed a bunch of water line years ago. I shot for about 16-18 inches in south central Alabama. Before the freezer line but not too deep.

It will be higher than that now id imagine, i wouldn’t do it that cheap.

Since you have a meter set, youd need to get a plumber to tie into the check valve, id opt for pex, because you can get it in rolls of various sizes and its better to have one continuous line than to have a bunch of joints where they can leak, but if you want to do pvc, do bell and spigot, dont try to couple it..youll be diggin it up.

12-18in for a standard peronal line or service is about the norm for frost penetration in alabama,
While for large lines its 18-36 or much deeper.

If you trench it yourself and let a plumber come tie it in.. you will probly save some money, id just call around and tellem to give you a quote…all ground is not created equal…if it was hard diggin id charge more..so you may be better off doing it yourself, pex varies by price depending on size of line, which is another thing, the longer the line the more friction loss you will have..by thag i mean, no matter how much pressure you got on the main..your gonna lose it between the meter and your house the longer it is, so its better to increase line size so that you have more water volume..like, if you get a 3/4in meter set, id do at least a 1-1 1/4” if it was more than a couple hundred feet, otherwise id just stick to 1”, bear minimum 3/4 for 3/4. Dont let anyone tell you that if you put in a 1/2in linebit will make your pressure go up..pressure and volume are two different things…you can have all the pressure in the world, but if your pushin it through a straw it doesn’t matter.

Im not pullin this out my butt either..i do this for a living


"I dont quit.. And ill fight alone if i have to"
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My water line keeps fracturing (3 times in the last 6 months). The leak this time is too small to detect the location so I haven't been able to find it yet. Two of my sons are plumbers so the decision was made to just cut a new trench and do a new pex waterline from meter to house and just abandon the PVC waterline that keeps breaking. 350 feet of pex is going to run me about $250 with my boys contractor discount. The trencher will probably run me $200 or so. While I have it I will probably run water out to the barn and to my blueberry bushes and add a couple of water hydrants. Probably looking at $800 for the entire project. I'm lucky and don't have to pay any labor fees for the actual work. Every time the old PVC waterline breaks it's costing me several hundred dollars in water bills. Last time it happened my water bill was $485. The one I just got is $325 which is how I discovered I had a leak, and I probably don't want to know what it's going to be next month.

I'm waiting on 811 to give me the go ahead to dig and they are taking their sweet time about it. In the meantime I have a wife who is mad as a hornet because we have no water, a brand new puppy to clean up after, and dishes and laundry are piling up. Not a lot of good will at Casa de BC for the next couple of days.


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Originally Posted by k bush
No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.

Call a leak detection company. My buddy owns bama leak detection. They even have a few dogs trained to find leaks.

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14 point
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Alabama leak detection is a very good service, also, it would benefit anyone to make sure they put in their own valve right behind the meter, and as many as they want between there and their house, if you have a leak, and know how to use the leak detector on a meter, you can isolate flow and find a leak within a span of pipe

Last edited by CarbonClimber1; 05/29/26 04:17 PM.

"I dont quit.. And ill fight alone if i have to"
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Doing the best I can.
Doing the best I can.
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Whatever you do, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT use a Sharkbite valve for pex outside. I didn't know they would deteriorate and learned the hard way. I have a huge water bill coming up because of it.


The true mark of a man is not how he conducts himself during times of prosperity, but how he conducts himself during times of adversity.
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14 point
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Originally Posted by Driveby
Whatever you do, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT use a Sharkbite valve for pex outside. I didn't know they would deteriorate and learned the hard way. I have a huge water bill coming up because of it.

Truer words have never been spoken, they will basically dissolve, they are not meant to be in dirt..and you will hate your life later.
I personally use a pop tool and crimp rings, i have never had a failure.


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14 point
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Also, you can put tracer wire in your ditch..you can..and it can be located..but whose gonna locate it..i dont know of any utilities around here that will locate a personal line, and 811 might if its right by the road, and you sit there and wait on them..and ask them to..but it wont be a good locate..because nobody is going to take responsibility for breaking your personal line if they locate it incorrectly..justbot something any utility is willing to assume risk of. They fix their stuff..you fix yours..unless they break it by accident. Some plumbers may have a pipehorn..i aint seen one around here yet

Last edited by CarbonClimber1; 05/28/26 11:27 AM.

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A turning plow (if open ground) can dig a very nice 10-12” furrow. I’ve done it.


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1 member likes this: gwstang
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Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
Originally Posted by rutwad
Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
You got a meter set?

Yes

Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
Dude up the road does like, $1.25-2.25/ft. I just dug it with a shovel

Actually cheaper than I expected.

Originally Posted by k bush
No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.


I installed a bunch of water line years ago. I shot for about 16-18 inches in south central Alabama. Before the freezer line but not too deep.

It will be higher than that now id imagine, i wouldn’t do it that cheap.

Since you have a meter set, youd need to get a plumber to tie into the check valve, id opt for pex, because you can get it in rolls of various sizes and its better to have one continuous line than to have a bunch of joints where they can leak, but if you want to do pvc, do bell and spigot, dont try to couple it..youll be diggin it up.

12-18in for a standard peronal line or service is about the norm for frost penetration in alabama,
While for large lines its 18-36 or much deeper.

If you trench it yourself and let a plumber come tie it in.. you will probly save some money, id just call around and tellem to give you a quote…all ground is not created equal…if it was hard diggin id charge more..so you may be better off doing it yourself, pex varies by price depending on size of line, which is another thing, the longer the line the more friction loss you will have..by thag i mean, no matter how much pressure you got on the main..your gonna lose it between the meter and your house the longer it is, so its better to increase line size so that you have more water volume..like, if you get a 3/4in meter set, id do at least a 1-1 1/4” if it was more than a couple hundred feet, otherwise id just stick to 1”, bear minimum 3/4 for 3/4. Dont let anyone tell you that if you put in a 1/2in linebit will make your pressure go up..pressure and volume are two different things…you can have all the pressure in the world, but if your pushin it through a straw it doesn’t matter.

Im not pullin this out my butt either..i do this for a living

When you say "bell and spigot" are you referring to bell end pvc that glues together or slip joint with the gasket?

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Originally Posted by globe
A turning plow (if open ground) can dig a very nice 10-12” furrow. I’ve done it.

I just finished doing exactly that with my plow. It's a two bottom and I removed one of the shares. Worked great for a new 3/4" pex to my barn.

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14 point
14 point
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Originally Posted by rutwad
Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
Originally Posted by rutwad
Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
You got a meter set?

Yes

Originally Posted by CarbonClimber1
Dude up the road does like, $1.25-2.25/ft. I just dug it with a shovel

Actually cheaper than I expected.

Originally Posted by k bush
No idea but a couple of observations. We have an approximately 1600’ water line that was put in with a trencher. There’s a leak somewhere in the line but it’s not showing self. Finally located the line (it goes throug some planted pines) and it’s about 42” deep.

1. Run a tracer wire with the pipe in case you need to find it later.
2. Don’t let them run that trencher at max depth.

My issue is the line is so deep I’m going to need a backhoe or mini/x to digs big enough hole to work it. Thoughts were to put valves in until we isolate the break. We’re dealing with 1” pvc, wish it was pex.


I installed a bunch of water line years ago. I shot for about 16-18 inches in south central Alabama. Before the freezer line but not too deep.

It will be higher than that now id imagine, i wouldn’t do it that cheap.

Since you have a meter set, youd need to get a plumber to tie into the check valve, id opt for pex, because you can get it in rolls of various sizes and its better to have one continuous line than to have a bunch of joints where they can leak, but if you want to do pvc, do bell and spigot, dont try to couple it..youll be diggin it up.

12-18in for a standard peronal line or service is about the norm for frost penetration in alabama,
While for large lines its 18-36 or much deeper.

If you trench it yourself and let a plumber come tie it in.. you will probly save some money, id just call around and tellem to give you a quote…all ground is not created equal…if it was hard diggin id charge more..so you may be better off doing it yourself, pex varies by price depending on size of line, which is another thing, the longer the line the more friction loss you will have..by thag i mean, no matter how much pressure you got on the main..your gonna lose it between the meter and your house the longer it is, so its better to increase line size so that you have more water volume..like, if you get a 3/4in meter set, id do at least a 1-1 1/4” if it was more than a couple hundred feet, otherwise id just stick to 1”, bear minimum 3/4 for 3/4. Dont let anyone tell you that if you put in a 1/2in linebit will make your pressure go up..pressure and volume are two different things…you can have all the pressure in the world, but if your pushin it through a straw it doesn’t matter.

Im not pullin this out my butt either..i do this for a living

When you say "bell and spigot" are you referring to bell end pvc that glues together or slip joint with the gasket?

Well..yeah, its kinda the same..sept what im talkin about has a rubber gasket in the bell and you slide it together with piped dope or dish soap. I dont like glue, but glue bells will be better than coupling tho


"I dont quit.. And ill fight alone if i have to"
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