I have a very simmular setup in my house. I have a pan in the return duct under the coils that has a switch, but no drain. The pump has a switch in it connected to the unit that will shut off the unit incase the pump fails. The short chunk of PVC that sticks up is for adding clorox once a month to kill all the gunk, and keep the pump from getting cloged. Mine has a PVC cap over the pipe, But I dont think it would matter if it were missing.

That pink bicycle is calling your name isn't Stray

If the relay was wired in on the pump, it should meet that code. If it wasn’t, then the question is, does a concrete slab mechanical room in a finished basement qualify as an area where the components or structure could be damaged. My answer would be yes, because there was damage resulting from the condensate.

Side note. Fairly certain the cutoff could not have been wired up if the pump was unplugged and the unit continued to cool. Batey would know better, as I rarely deal with condensate pumps. But it should be a closed contact wired in to Y. When power is lost, the contact should open.

pump being plugged in or having power doesnt affect the cut off switch its a float switch that is normally closed unless water gets high enough to raise float and open the circuit. going by the code he posted at a minimum its already up to code and at a maximum it needs 2 emg cutoff float switches it has one on the pump that needs hooked up and it probably needs one on the evap coil pan i doubt anyone installed one to begin with if they didnt even wire the one that comes on the pump.

I'd say no. Typically when the code is referring to the "structure or components of the structure could be damaged" it is referring to a situation where the air handler is in an attic and thus would damage the sheetrock, ceiling and structure below. IMO flooring damage as you describe would not qualify. You're grasping at straws and trying to read something into the code that is not there trying to support the homeowner. The fact is that the homeowner is a dumbass for unplugging the condensate pump. it's called "Contributory Negligence" caused by the homeowner intentionally disabling (unplugging) a perfectly acceptable mechanical solution and an automatic win for the contractor or sub-contractor who did the install.

Same situation with the water heater sitting next to it. If the tank in that water heater fails, who's he going to sue over that flooding his basement.

One thing you need to remember about code is it only applies at the time the home was built. You can't know what code was in any given jurisdiction time or place. Codes change, some areas adopt, some don't. You can't hold a home built in 1978 to 2018 codes. There are going to be multiple upgrades done on those homes. What code applied at that time? When was each code adopted and applicable?

I can't walk into a 1965 built home and expect to find grounded outlets and modern wiring. That's why I don't quote code. We have 30 different jurisdictions in our region and every one of them adopt different codes and enforce differently. When you start quoting code you are implying you are a code expert. I know very few people who can make that claim.

I work with building codes daily. I'm well versed in how to read and interpret the code. But I'm not an expert on mechanical at all. You have misread my posts. I'm not representing the home owner, rather the builder. Never grasped at anything. I was stating facts and asking questions about issues that I don't work with much. I figured someone in the trade could give me some insight or information...show me the proper take on the situation.

We run into that often. Normally we can backtrack to find the specific code with local amendments at time of permit....for more modern codes. Older structures are more of a challenge.

This case is the 2015 IRC, City of Birmingham jurisdiction.

The oldest code I had to work with was the 1945 Standard Building Code and the 1920s City of Gadsden Fire Marshal Code for a case on a set of stairs built in the 1930s and never altered or changed since...old hotel.

So let me get this straight. Reading between the lines, the homeowner unplugs a perfectly functioning condensate pump and floods his own basement and now the contractor that built the house is having to spend his money to hire your firm to help represent him with his defense against the homeowner that is after the contractor for damages caused by the homeowner's personal stupidity/actions? That right there is what's wrong in the world today.

Yes, pretty much it but builder general liability insurance company hires me to help defend their insured. . And that pump issue was expanded to other things related to construction by plaintiff's lawyer and his "experts". Mechanical is a part of the larger case.

somebody neglected to hook up the float switch that is factory installed in the pump if it was hooked up instead of the wire just laying in the floor the unit would have shut off. most homeowners are completely clueless about how anything works so its hard to blame someones ignorance (homeowner) over someone elses negligence that knows better (HVAC tech) that probably spent a day or two installing the unit but wouldnt take 5 minutes to wire up the float switch. I would think regardless of the code the equipment should be installed as intended by the manufacturer and all safety devices provided should be installed and not bypassed.

GK, how do you know that the unit was not hooked up correctly to start with and the homeowner did not kick the pump and tear the wire loose from the unit while moving something around. If he's dumb enough to not know that the condensate pump needed to be plugged in and running then he'd also be dumb enough to not notice that the wire was pulled loose. No telling, maybe he did it on purpose to strengthen his overall case since he evidently has other issues with the house according to Straycat, and this is just part of a larger claim. And dont get me wrong, I absolutely know that there are ton of crappy half azzed contractors and subs around that just want to build it as quick and cheap as possible and get on to the next one. I know in FL that our bldg inspectors specifically check stuff like this, especially on the mechanical and electrical, when you call for final inspection and prior to issuing the CO on the house. Granted a bunch of them can get complacent and will just trust the subs or GC on a lot of stuff like that if they know you and you have a good reputation but I can assure you if they saw that, it would have been written up and had to be fixed prior to CO. I know that Bama is not nearly as strict with regard to code and GC licensing as Fl and I don't build in Bama but I'd assume that in Alabama you'd at least have to have a final inspection from the local building dept prior to getting the CO on the house.

What homeowners don't know is astounding.

I had a setup like that in my basement but after the second pump went out I screwed a water hose on it and ran it outside.

Is it me or does the drain line look like it is going up hill?