Thanks for all the good ideas.i was in Simmons sporting goods and they had Speer capsules for snake shot so I just bought those for $12.
I'm sure I'll give the over shot idea a try at some point but using the capsules for now. luckily I've got just enough unique left for some snakeshot loads.

Hopefully get to test them soon

I absolutely melted about a 3' rattler at one of my hog traps. Handloaded with #8 shot.

Man I've got a little Sub compact xd9 that I'm 4 for 4 on water moccasin head shots with jacketed hollow points.i surprised myself.on the first couple my son was was saying yeah you just got lucky by the last two he was telling my buddies watch this.lol I better start shooting snake shot before my luck runs out

I really enjoy shooting water moccasin and copper heads.one of those four was in road when I drove by coiled up striking at my truck tire nasty little bastards.it was close to one of my bow stands so definitely wanted to kill it

Pro tip: if you walk up on a water moccasin without your xd9, cut a thin flexible sapling. Took the steam out of one Friday that I walked up on.

Hahahaha

3%, this is what I use for sealing every need I have in the reloading world. From sealing the brass fire forming of my wildcats to shotshell. I buy it in the gallon size cause it only takes a few drops to seal and a overnight dry. It's called water glass.

Here's some 9.3 x 74R I'm fire forming into 3" brass forever 410 shotshells. All wads sealed with water glass.

I just got 50 Hornady .444 Marlin brass for loading for a .410.

I’d like to know how you do this.

I havent tried it yet,,,,but google it. Its supposed to work.

Well this is how I do it. Everyone has there own method, so this is kinda like a "cliff notes version."

The basic tools. Drill with socket adapter to hold brass while spinning in front of torch. For those new at this I suggest you use some temp tape so you don't over heat the brass and make it too soft.
I then have a turkey aluminum liner from Wally filled with water to drop the hot brass into.
After cooling I let the brass dry completely.




I then prime the case, now I use a standard primer in most cases, but in some I use a magnum. In the case of making the 3" 410 shells I'm using a very robust brass case that's made to contain very high pressure, so it's a magnum primed case and it does have a little more powder than usual. It's the last bit of some cases closest to the rim that is hardest to fill out properly.But for most fire forming I load in about 8 grains of unique, fill the rest of the case up with cream of wheat, but be sure to leave about a 3/8th of an inch at the top for the wad and the glue seal that's needed at the top. As you can see in this image , I opted to use a bit of foam to keep the powder and the cream of wheat separate. I used it because it was easier to set straight and flat against the powder.





I've used cork, cardboard, pasteboard, tissue paper for wads but the best for me was a stiff pasteboard.


For shooting I just load from the data books. Primer, powder, a cardboard wad over powder than a few cardboard wads or cork to cushion the shot. Pop in the over shot wad and seal with water glass and let dry overnight. By playing around with powders and wads you should have an acceptable load recipe
that should give success in the field. If you don't mind shooting the 2-1/2" length shotshell, than use the off the shelf 444 Marlin brass. It's a basic prime, powder, wad, shot, wad, seal and shoot. Now go and have fun.

Sweet man that's awesome.heck we use liquid glass at work as a seperator film.nitro it looks like your the man on reloading for sure.
Great post.this the crap my dad does.lol but it works love it!

Thanks to all for sharing this. Keeps the tradition alive.

And I'm sure all the others feel the same. We got to stick together, and be as helpful as we can to all.

You guys are a wealth of knowledge