How hard do you really have to hit a scope to knock the point of impact off and is a higher quality scope harder to "knock off" than a cheaper one? The reason I ask is because the other day I bumped the end of my barrel and I could hear and feel it vibrate the length of the gun and it just sounded and felt terrible. BTW the scope that's on the gun I bumped is a meopta meopro 4-12X50.

You prob ruined the scope, I’ll give you $100 for it now before you miss a deer with it.
I’ve bumped mine pretty hard and they stayed true, most of the time getting slung around in the truck. Other times It’ll be off and I don’t remember bumping it at all. You better check it.

I dropped mine 30’ from a climber this year. Of course I went directly to a friends house close by and checked it. Was still right where it was when I set it. This was with an older Zeiss conquest scope. I was amazed that it didn’t move.

I did same thing few years ago slide down muddy hill had to put down my arm holding the rifle and felt that twang vibration go through whole rifle but it held zero no problem and it was a cheap Burris fullfield scope

Just my opinion but the quality of the mount (rings/bases) matters more here unless you hit the thing hard enough to move the actually internals of the scope.

I ride with mine in tractor most every day after cold weather comes and it takes a bunch of bumps n bangs

Good mounts and scopes rarely lose zero from bumps, even really hard bumps. The amount of force traveling through the rifle every time the trigger is pulled is far greater than the vast majority of bumps, drops etc.

Quality scope, scope rings and base and you have nothing to worry about.

Dropped my 25-06 with Swarovski scope 20 feet out of a ladder stand. The scope was exactly 1" off LOL.

My thoughts as well.

My rifle with an older Swarovski PV fell over as I was getting into a Family Tradition 2 man. Slid down the rail and landed dead flat on the expanded metal floor.

Hunted with it that day out of necessity, and killed a buck at 215 yards. Took it to the range later to test. First shot was dead center, with the group size being less than an inch as fast as I could work the bolt.

You can't hide money.

I think the manner of hit the scope takes is important. I’ve had cheaper optics shift dramatically from what I’d consider a light tap and some of my better ones take a lot of abuse and maintain zero. Consider that scopes are designed to take a hard knock repeatedly(from the rifle itself) in a linear fashion. That is front to back. The internals can be moved a bit with enough lateral force from a sideways strike. It pays to take a confirmation shot or two if you think your scope has been jarred enough to warrant it.

Agreed

Not my tripod stand, and I would rather have one rifle with a great scope than 6 with cheap ones.

You never know. Check the zero any time you bang it. I have one with an expensive scope, rings and mount that has to be babied - lean it against a door frame and let it fall over on carpet and it's off a foot or two. I have others that run the gamut. I have an old cheap tasco from the early 80s on a ruger 77 that holds zero when dropped from a tree.

Whoops wrong thread