My dad has had the bow listed above for several years now, has been unstrung for probably 20 years I'd guess. Seems to be in fine shape to shoot still. I've been thinking about getting it set back up to begin shooting some. The thing that seems unique to me is the poundage. It is hand written on the limb as 67# at 28". I believe this bow is 52". I've heard dad say multiple times it takes a man to shoot this bow given the poundage, so I guess we'll see where I stand

Any trad bow shooters or archery pros have some suggestions or advice on where to begin setting this thing back up (string type, arrow weight, FP/BH weight, brace height, etc)?

what is your draw length? if it is more than 28 inches, add two pounds per inch. if you draw 30 inches, for example, the poundage will be right at 71 pounds. use a standard string, not a fastflite string. if it is, indeed, 52 inches long, finger pinch could be an issue. i prefer a tab over glove, and three fingers under, rather than two below and one above. So many personal preferences involved. when i was much younger, i shot a martin shadow longbow rated at 62 pounds/28 inches. i was drawing 30, so upwards of 66 pounds. my son has that bow now. he draws 28 inches, and does not use a tab or glove. 62 pounds with bare fingers!
be patient as you discover what fits you ...

I'm assuming it's an older bow so first of all I would get a new string. B-50 Dacron 16 strand string for that age. Older bows have a tough time handling more modern string materials. You would probably be good with a 48" string if it's a 52" bow. General rule of thumb is 4" shorter for recurves. As far as poundage, most people need to start low 40s on poundage. Once you get it strung, you'll understand why he said that. I've got a Widow that draws 62# and another that draws 65#. The one I now hunt with is 51#. If your length is 28" which is really common, you can probably get some 125 grain field tips with 340 carbon arrows and be good. If you go any heavier on the point weight you'll probably need to go with 300 spine. That said, every traditional shooter is as different as finger prints. You may be able to go with 145 grain tips without a stiffer spine. I would test 340s with 125 grain tips first though.

Once you get it strung, don't put a nock point on. String it and let it sit a few days inside as the string will stretch. I would even draw it some. Once it's stretched, then put a nock point. If you don't have a bow square, get one. I'm not sure what the recommended brace height for a Bear Kodiak Magnum is, but you should be able to find that. Don't go by that as religion. All that means is the manufacturers recommended brace height. Don't be afraid to twist/un-twist the string to adjust it if they bow isn't shooting smooth.

Thanks to both of you for the advice and pointers.

Recurve, I'm fully expecting that bow to be a beast to shoot. I've had some experience shooting a 45# recurve for a few months and it wasn't too rough. I'm a fairly big guy, but I expect the 67# draw on a trad bow to be significant. For the time being I'm just wanting to get it setup and start shooting it for fun, then who knows if I end up becoming confident in it out to 20 yards I may take her to the woods.

Also, my draw length is 29.5" last I had it measured at a pro shop.

Great advice. I wouldnt start out with 65lbs, plus the string angle is critical on a 52 inch bow.

Quick update and question:

I've gotten the bow, and being that it is an older bow (late 60's early 70's I think), it has some hazy, spider-web type patterns on the fiberglass coating where the limbs bend when the bow is pulled back. Is this something I should be concerned about before attempting to use this bow? I've never messed with these glass powered Bear recurves, so I don't want to get hurt in the process.

Sounds like stress cracks which are common with a lot of older bows.
Usually it's on the surface and not a real problem but with that bow being a higher poundage I would be cautious.

If it were me, I would set it back as a keep sake and get a lighter poundage bow to begin with. If you really wanted to shoot the old Bear, and you can handle the poundage, you could always send it to someone like the bow hospital to be restored.

Even with a fella that's in good shape, muscular, shooting a bow involves muscles you don't typically use so that's why I recommend a lighter poundage to begin with.
The old Bear is worth keeping though, imo.

Thanks TG

What is this bow hospital you speak of?

http://elkridgearchery.com/

Go to this site and click on bow hospital. There are others that restore old bow, I will try to get the info on some more.

I think Mike at Maddog Archery does some refinish work.

That's a stout bow!!! I know I couldn't shoot it properly.

Yep, it will be a stout one no question.

It's really interesting to me that the stamped weight is 67# and not your typical 5 # increments. I don't really know much about the bow except that it first belonged to one of my uncle's (by marriage) father. He bought it new in the 60's or 70's so I don't know if this was a custom deal he had made by Bear or not. He handed it down to my uncle, who shot traditional mostly for fun. He gave this bow to my dad who shot it for a while. At this point I'm just trying to make use of it since it is such a cool bow, I hate to see it just sit and rot away.

Lot of the Bear bows had the actual weight stamped behind the strike plate.

Interesting. I'm going to replace the old strike plate so I will look for it.

67#...woof...thatll show you what you made of for sure

Lol..yea..Ive shot recurves since 75 and all my bows have been between 45-50 lbs.
I never kept any over 50 lbs

You'd be surprised. I've had a good many recurves/long bows and most have been an odd number like 51#, 63#, etc.

Cool, thanks.

All I'll say is that you will be stressing it pretty good if your draw is 29.5. I would try to shoot heavy arrows of about 10 gpp or more to help keep it safe.

What he said about your arrow weight is very important. My trouble with carbons has always been finding one of heavier weight without getting involved in things like buying heavily weight inserts 200 grain broadheads and all that stuff. Gets expensive after a while. It's not as hard if you shoot 45#. But you get to the heavier weights and it becomes more difficult. I've owned a seventy pound bow before and your probably not going to get a 600 grain arrow out of your typical carbon with 125 grain tips. they do make heavy weight carbon shafts but your typical bemans and gold tips ain't gonna do It. I still shoot aluminum for that reason.

Had a 55 and and 65, snap shot with both. Shot year round, only way to stay in condition. Be careful starting off, if you ever pull a muscle it will take a long time to cure.

I HAVE A HOWARD HILL THATS 55#@28 AND ITS A BEAST FOR ME AT 30".
I CANT IMAGINE ONE HEAVIER.

Try a Gold Tip 55/75 shaft left long, and a 100gr insert, 200gr head. It will be in the 600gr range for total arra, plenty enough.

Also your not going to draw 29.5 inches. Cant the bow and shoot it right. You want to do a push pull technique. Known many many shooters to shoot 70 and above traditional. Larry Troutman who won 90 percent of tourneys around south use shoot all day an 85 pound recurve. Im 6' 2" and I pull 27 inches when i shoot a recurve. My first widow was 72 pounds and now I shoot 57 pounds. However with the advent of carbon I would feel confident to smoke Alabama Whitetails at 40 pounds.