I've got a slight nutsedge problem in my purple hulls, can I spray them with clethodium like I would IC peas?

Yes, but i don't think cleth will kill nutsedge. I may be remembering that wrong, but i think it will take gly, or 2,4,d to kill it and that will toast your pea's. All this rain really brings out the nutsedge.

Image not 2,4D for nutsedge.

If that is anything like what we call nut grass, nothing will kill it.

You'll need sandea or permit, not sure what the label is on peas but it's labeled for green beans and it's pricey..iron might be your best option.

Just for future reference, 2, 4 D kills broadleaf plants, not grasses.

For the discussion...

Regardless of price, what is the absolute best herbicide to kill Nutsedge, nutgrass, feral chuffa's or whatever you folks want to call it?

I let my garden lay out last year and sprayed it 4 or 5 times with 2 quarts of Roundup PowerMax + 16 ounces of non ionic surfactant, mixed at 2 quarts per 25 gallons. I saturdated the Nutsedge on every application. I've already sprayed it once this year and plan to spray it again this coming week. I had very few Nutsedge plants when I sprayed it the first time but after TS Chrisy came through it's all over again. I AM NOT GOING WITHOUT A GARDEN AGAIN NEXT YEAR. I want to kill this crap and be done with it.

I can't imagine how those nuts survived a catastrophic drought coupled with having no foliage to feed them for a year.

Any tuberous plant is hard to kill. No matter what.

I'm thinking about fencing it in and putting some hogs on it.

They'll just scatter it too

www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?...ad229b34a5b9c21

This stuff will kill it, but it takes several applications and I have never been able to completely eradicate it from a field. It's not meant for gardens, so no telling what it will do to the stuff you wanna grow.

I've tried spraying it with 4 quarts of gly and the nutgrass just got greener. It ruins chufa fields and the only solution I've found is to move the field.

I have heard from a friend who is in the asphalt business that nutsedge will grow in fresh laid asphalt. I could be wrong but I believe asphalt comes from the plant at around 300deg F. It's crazy to think that a weed could survive that.

I think the nut sedge grows through the asphalt, not in it.

image herbicide will kill nutsedge very well, not sure on the peas though

Yea, i know 2,4,d is for broadleafs but i new cleth wouldn't kill it and couldn't remember what would.

Fur, is the ground just fallow field right now?

For killing nutsedge, my preference:
1) Sulfosulfuron (Outrider). Absolute best IMO
2) Trifloxysulfuron (Maverick or Envoke are two trade names)
3) halosulfuron (Sedgehammer, Sandea)
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2041). Imazaquin (image, this trade name may have changed)

007, yes. Most of it anyway. I have a few tomato plants on one end but I can not spray around them.

How long after I spray will it be safe to plant. I don't want to grow any extra fingers or nipples.

I would go with Halosulfuron. It is shorter-lived than trifloxysulfuron and has some veggies on the label. Sulfosulfuron is very short-lived also, but not sure if there is a label for garden plants. How long really depends on what you plant. You likely will need to treat the nutsedge a second time, but a month may work, again depending on what you plant.

Sandea is a fine product.

You have told me before to try Outrider, but I never have been able to make myself pull the trigger on buying it. Here it is for anyone interested:

https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/in...products_id=689

$429 for 20 oz is pretty steep, but I guess I should get some. I've used up all the Sandea. In my infected fields, I've tried planting half the field in chufas and the other half in RR corn, and spraying the corn with gly and Sandea, then rotating it the next year. It hasn't worked. The Sandea will top kill the nutgrass, but the next year when I try to grow chufas on the land the nutgrass seems just as bad as ever.

If I just left the field fallow and hit it with Outrider a couple of times, do you think that would wipe out the nutgrass for good? It would be worth the money if it would do that. Thanks for any ideas.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but nutgrass is a plague on humanity. The eggheads that say chufas and nutgrass are the same plant are living in an alternate universe.

Permit, or halosulfuron, should be cheaper than Sandea. Also cheaper than Outrider, but again, not quite as good.
I have found that treating nutsedge, allowing new shoots to emerge and treating again in early fall, will control it 90% +. I think the mistake people make is treating it once then tilling or planting after they think it is dead, and this just allows it to recover. Also, by treating in the fall, the top growth and metabolism slows, allowing the herbicide to work on it even more. This is also generally true for many of the perennial grasses like johnsongrass, dalliagrass, etc.
So, PCP, to answer your question, I think if you leave it fallow, treat it in Late July or early August, then treat regrowth again in September, you will be much more pleased with the result. I won't bet on complete control as I never count out nutsedge, but it should be much improved.
Also, don't skimp on the rate. I see that all the time because cost is so high. I would go with 1.33 oz/A and follow up with another app at the same rate.

Thanks 007, I only used one ounce per acre and treated it just once in the fall. Guess I need to bite the bullet and buy the stuff and do it better.

Agree with 007 that halosulfuron is great on sedge. I inherited a yard that was covered in it and one application has pretty much knocked it out. It is all we used for sedge in turf when i did commercial landscaping. Sedge/kyllinga was never much of a problem with halo.

Never used it on peas, would just have to read the label.

007,

I'm dealing with purple and yellow nutsedge too. Where do you rank Katana and Dismiss South on your list of herbicides? What about MSMA?

Second question: Certainty and Outrider are both 75% sulfosulfuron. One specifically says not to use on sod and the other is recommended for zoysia. EPA Reg. numbers are slightly different. Any idea on why one is for sod and the other is not?

Katana is pretty hot on it also, but I always felt I burned the tops off too quickly, allowing some regrowth to occur. It is definitely a two-app product. MSMA always killed it, but I had to get the rate up pretty high to kill it with one app in turf, which hurt the grass. In a noncrop setting it would be a good choice. Honestly I don't know where the cost falls it has been so long since I messed with it.

Outrider and Certainty are same, difference is money, or used to be. Certainty, being a turf product, commanded a premium price.

Thank you Sir!

https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=362

Anyone know of a cheaper source for Permit than $393 for 20 oz?

Would turning a field and letting it lay over winter, like the farmers from days gone by, help with rotting seeds and unwanted plants?

Some, but seed can remain viable a long time, depending on species. It would need to be deep, like subsoiling.

I remember in the 70's somebody was doing a test on buried deep seed and how long they would last. Plain old Cockleburr's were proven to last 17 years at that time and still have a good percentage of germination. It was just the 17th year of the test.

I've battled Johnsongrass, Privet and Spiny Amaranth almost all my life and I've never dealt with anything more persistent than the nutgrass in my garden. I sprayed it 3 times with 2 quarts of Roundup PowerMax with added surfactant last year and have already sprayed it once this year. My entire garden spot was as brown as a paper sack after spraying, until the TS moved in. This is a poor quality picture that I took yesterday but my entire garden looks just like this. The crap is as thick now as it was before I started spraying last year. I sprayed it Wednesday with another dose of 2 qts RU per 25 gallons. I sprayed nearly a whole 25 gallon on my little garden. I made sure the nutgrass was saturated to the crown. When it puts back out, I'm going to spray it with Sedgehammer +. The nutgrass in the photo is about 16" tall.

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Fur, I think you are just wasting time and money spraying it with gly. It's gonna take one of the high priced herbicides to ever have much effect.

Yellow Nutsedge is a plague.

I may be PPC. Roundup is rated as good as any chemical out there as far as effectiveness is concerned when it comes to nutsedge control. I just looked again to be sure of that. I did just read that using 10 gallons or less of solution per acre. I've been using more thinking the more the better.

One problem is, the area was completely solid in nutgrass one whole season. I'm talking about thigh high, lush nutgrass. There's no telling how many nutlets are in the ground.

I do know I'm tired of fooling with it.

Plant some cogon grass out there and it should choke out the nutgrass.

Fur, I did my master's work on controlling yellow and purple nutsedge, as well as 5 other sedge/killings species and can definitely say roundup is not an answer. Over the duration of my research, I kept up with population reduction year-over-year and gly was very poor. You have to take those online rankings with a grain of salt. I highly suspect that the ranking is based on topkill, which gly will do, rather than long-term control.

Go with one of the product we discussed and you should feel a whole lot better about your garden next year.

Sand mtn is infested with purple nutsedge. Which is by far worse than yellow nutsedge

007, sounds like you should definitely know. The ratings I was using were coming from PSU and other land grant research. PSU had it rated the same as the sulfurons.

I don't know if this is yellow or purple. I just know it's the worst thing I've ever tried to kill.