Pre emmisons, Kubota Mx5100 (up to 2012) is an excellent choice, pull 6 ft implements, and can still be hauled with 1/2 ton truck with the correct trailer

I completely disagree. I have a 2012-13 (can't remember)JD 5045e with FEL and I've had zero problems with mine. I bought it with I think 190 hrs on it. It's got 350 now. BUT I don't have emissions stuff. I really like my tractor and would do it all over again.

My understanding is that 2013 was the year that required the final phase of the emissions control. I hurried to make the trade and get a 2012 model. They didn't even offer a down exhaust on a 2013 and I have to have that in the woods.

Mine still has a bunch of junk on it, but the E series is the least complicated line that JD offers.

The new electronics on tractors is no different than the electronics in a game camera. Keep both inside in a controlled environment they will last a lifetime. Get them out in the rain, dust, hot, cold, etc. the electronics will give problems.


About 90% of the BS electronics on these small tractors are not needed.

The new electronics on tractors is no different than the electronics in a game camera. Keep both inside in a controlled environment they will last a lifetime. Get them out in the rain, dust, hot, cold, etc. the electronics will give problems.

I see. So I can do anything with my new tractor that I did with my old tractor except get it wet, use it outside in the dust, use it in the summer, or use it in the winter Uh, got it.

I do agree the E version syxks but that's because of EPA regs. Buy a pre-2010 john Deere and you'll be happy for life. Don't buy any new tractors, they all have the HP killing and life shortening EPA garbage

And don't forget, yours was made in GA; mine was made in India.

That makes perfect sense, preacher. They're the only ones who can figure out how to run a computer on diesel fuel.

X3

I fooled with them all best advice I can give is forgett about a new Deere start going to sales and looking around for 70-80's model Deere. You can buy 4 of them models for what you can buy one new one last two I redone 1630 55hp, and a 300 50hp motor sleeve kits I think were only about 625$. There are a lot of them old and English models around and far as just a tractor to use you can't beatem

I've got a 2000 model JD but I love the 70s and 80s john Deere's. They are bulletproof.

And you would be surprised how many of them are around and can be bought for 5-8$ thousand. And how many setting around a barn tore up that can be bought cheap with little wrong with them. Nobody that ain't been around one wants to fool with the brake pads bought a bunch of them cheap because of no brakes

Farmall 140 or 274
Or a JD 1050

My son bought 2 JD 4020s from a farmer that was down sizing last spring for a packaged price of $13,000. I sold one before we even picked them up later that day. His daddy had bought them new in 1970 and 1971. Both had a o ring leaking on engine cooler. It took about 15 minutes to fix. The one we kept I had to install a water pump kit, replace the PTO control seal under dash and tape up a naked wire.
Total price on oil $145.00 and kit and o rings around $160.00.
Except for a o ring or gasket or hydraulic hose I expect it to last longer then I have left on this earth.

I have a 5065e that's an 09, 10, or 11 (can't remember). I got it as an off lease several years ago with a few hundred hours on it. So far the only issue I have had is the cold start sensor went bad which was blowing the ignition fuse. It now has about 900ish hours on it. I also bought a 04 Kubota M6800 (the predecessor to the M7040 about 3 years ago, it had 396 hours on it and now has about 700.
Both have been great tractors, the Kubota is a slightly higher HP tractor and is non turbo it runs quieter, smoother, and has noticeably more low end power. However, the JD will flat out work it when breaking ground. Both have water in the rear tires, the JD does have water in the front tires and a FEL, so the total JD weight is higher.

FEL's and 4WD are two options that do not seem to depreciate, but a 2WD tractor without a FEL can be had for pretty cheap (compared to new).

Thanks for all of the info fellers! I believe the way to go is save the money and buy a 70's -80's model JD and have a better tractor than the new ones with all the sensors.

Do yourself a favor and buy an older tractor that is put together had isint built light. I've got a 98 new Holland 65 horse that's built like a tank. I wouldn't trade that tractor for anything they make these days.

Get an old one and just tell yourself if it tears up... I'll just have to fix it. Can't beat a Ford/New Holland and some of the Masseys. They have good parts availability. Also the Deere 2030, 2440, 2640 series I like for reliability and excellent power for their size.

I started rewiring a mid 1970's Ford this past weekend. Tore all the wires out of it and hooked the key switch back up and one wire to battery from alternator. Fires right up and I could go plow a field with it. Probably has three wires hooked up total.

You can't do that with a new one.