picked up 32oz. at Tractor Supply and am curious if anyone can tell me whats safe mix for my OMC? thanks

What are you trying to get rid of? Is it 10%?

Got this answer from a buddy of mine off squirrel dog site. thought i would share.

Bugman, please let me know if you think this is good, and yes i have 10%


A lot of talk recently about fleas and problems with fleas. So for all you new folks I have made this post before but after 6 months or so it rolls off the site never to be seen again. Here is some information for you on fleas and how to control them.



Like most insect control, successful flea control must include a flea treatment that will stop the flea "cycle". This cycle I am referring to includes the eggs, larva, pupa and adult stage. Here is a brief description of the cycle from start to finish.



1. An adult flea jumps on your pet and feeds on the blood.

2) Once fed, the flea will look to mate and immediately lay eggs. This can occur in the yard, the house, and on the pet, in the woods around the kennel dog bedding or just about wherever.

3) In the next two to three weeks hundreds of eggs will be laid by this one flea. Some of these may fall in the yard, some in the house and some will remain on the dog.

4) When the eggs hatch, a small creature comes out to feed on anything organic. This includes dried blood, flea feces, animal hair and a variety of other disgusting organic matter in the yard, in your carpet, on furniture, on your pet and basically anywhere in or outside the home they can find food.

5) These flea larva will then feed for days after which they'll spin a cocoon and undergo a metamorphosis in this stage. And it's this third stage, the one called the flea pupa, which is the toughest thing about flea infestations. This is the worst stage of all because you can't kill it !! No spray will kill flea pupa completely. This is why you still have fleas even after you treat for them. And this is why you should know the flea cycle and how to break it.

6) The flea cycle will then complete once the flea pupa hatches out. But unlike most insects, fleas won't randomly hatch. Instead, the "hatching" of pupa will only happen when it detects a hot blooded meal close at hand. Only then will the pupa risk coming out of its protective cocoon. And when it does, it will immediately bite, feed and look to breed. At that time the cycle will start all over again and you are just chasing your tail trying to get rid of them if you don't treat your yard regularly.

The flea cycle can occur almost anywhere. It will occur on the animal, in the yard, in your carpet, in a litter box, in a bed, in a garage, in a basement, in a crawl space, in an attic, in a doghouse, on furniture, etc. The rule is simple: any place a warm blooded animal spends time can become a flea infested location. And it's important to understand that fleas can feed on most any animal that's warm blooded. If you have blood, they can and will feed on you if given the opportunity. They attach to dogs, cats, squirrels, raccoons, chipmunks, rats, mice, and birds but if none are present, they turn their attention to the people as well. So if you are one of them who put out bird feeders and have tons of squirrels coming in with a flea problem, I suggest you eliminate all your squirrels until you get this problem under control. The squirrels will come back if you kill them all, but the fleas won't leave if you don't.

Once infested, it will generally take 1-2 months to rid your area of fleas. If you do it the right way, the cycle would be interrupted with the first flea treatment and once the flea pupae have all hatched out, the flea infestation will stop. Will this take a week, a month or two months? No one can say for sure because of one reason: it all depends on how many flea pupae are in your home and how long it takes for them to run their growth cycle and hatch out. It could be resolved with one flea treatment; it could take three to six weeks of flea spraying once a week for all the cycles to run their course.

Another thing most people don't understand is "My product says it kills eggs" When you do a liquid treatment with an adulticide and a growth regulator, the adulticide kills the adult fleas which are out and about. It will also kill any larva crawling around. The growth regulator acts on the existing eggs and once they are exposed to the regulator, they will not be able to develop normally to adults. However, there will still be all the pupae which will be developing. These could take another 4-8 weeks to hatch out and there is nothing that can be done to stop this from happening. The exact length of time will vary; it all depends on things like temperature, humidity, the species of flea, what they have to feed on, and so forth.

I have treated flea infestation for several buddies who let the problem get out of control I can tell you the best way is to get your dog on a treatment plan 1st. Spray the yard and around the kennels woods and everything within a 50 foot radius of the kennel or dog every day for 7 days, then every other day for the next 21 days. I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the ONLY way you will get rid of them.


Most all the flea control products out there work if you use them right, most folks just dont use them right and think the product they have dont work. Below is what I use and how I use just as a general guideline.

I use Permethrin, but I use different solutions for different things. Using the Permethrin 10%.........Just wait until it dries to put the dogs back in the kennel.

I use a 10% solution and apply it directly to the dogs. thats about 1 ounce per gallon of water.

I use a 25% solution for inside the kennel and bedding area. Thats about 2.5 ounces per gallon of water. I also use this solution inside the dog house and my house.

I use a 50% Solution for the yard and the woods. Thats 5.5 ounces per gallon of water.

That may be an overkill for the yard, since most people use the 10% solution for just about everything, but I dont like bugs in the yard and the kennels so I step it up a notch or 2 outside.

Not sure which site you got that from or who wrote it but 10% is to strong to put directly on a dog. If you are going to use it in that manner, and I am not recommending it, it would be 12 CC of 10% mixed with 8 oz. water for a 0.5% final solution. The best thing for fleas is Bayer tree and shrub insect killer. I use 1-3 cc starting at the neck and going to the tail.

Well I re-read it and maybe he's saying he mixes the 10% at a rate of 1 oz per gallon of water. That might get you to .5% I'd have to do the math to see. I don't think you'd need a whole gallon to treat a dog though. 8 oz will be plenty, sprayed lightly on the dog.

Bugman, what is best for ticks?

There is a collar that you can get from your vet called preventic. It's about $25 but it lasts 2-3 months. The permethrin will work but its dangerous at high dosages.

Admire is the best you can get for fleas. You can by the purple python cattle tags to put on your dogs collar to keep ticks off.

Those purple tags are a waste of money. I put one on each of my Min-Pins and I have literally watched fleas breed on one of the tags.

bringing up an old thread, but I've got a bottle of 38% Permethrin that I wanted to use for tick/flea control on my dog. Would it be best to mix to a 0.5% or so solution and spray the dog, or use a very small amount (1-3 cc's) and apply topically to his back? If applied topically, what would be a safe dosage?

Go to your veterinarian with your flea and tick concerns. We see people almost daily that come in for flea problems that have been using all kind of these home remedies to no avail.

X1000

I started out with comfortis when it was first available. Then about 7 years ago went to trifexis. Treats Worms (including heart worms) and fleas. I haven't seen fleas on mine in over 10 years. My cost per dog averages about $12 a month. Treatment time, about 2 seconds with a hot dog weinie. Been there done that. All your doing is wasting your time and annoying the dog.

That's because they are for flies and not fleas..

I disagree, but I don't trust many vets, and especially not any students.. IMO..

what office you work for??

Same here, used confotis then switched to trifexis. Not cheap but what is anymore

Thanks for your input guys.

DW, what do you use on your dogs?

I use permethrin 10% as the label indicates on my dogs kennel floors and walls once per month. To weeks later I put bayer complete insect "imadocloprid" down there back. I have not had one tick or flea on my dogs in over three years. The permethrin lasts approximately three weeks and effectively breaks the cycle of egg to flea. The Bayer complete insect is the same active ingredient as Bayer advantage. In my opinion there is no need to go to a vet for things like flea and tick control or intestinal worms and heart worms. I do all of these things for four full size Kemmer curs for app 40 dollars a year.

That's fine DW, that's your opinion. And it doesn't matter who I work for, since you don't trust veterinarians.

I'm sure many of us simple folks do appreciate your input, Thanks

I said "many" vets. It's there job to tell you stuf doesn't work, buy my stuff. That's how they make money. They sell drugs for animals. Not to many large animal vets "Save" a lot of livestock. I been around them all my life. Still around them. I u sweat and where they are coming from. If I call out a vet for a sick cow, they gonna give it something, may just be a cortizone "Dex" shot, which won't so much. But still, they gonna charge you $190 a hour. When in reality, they could say, I'm not real sure what to do. That school won't teach you everything in animals. Or herdsman ship. like I said. I don't trust many of them. But not all of them. Now, tell me why you disagree with me? Is it because of facts off your animals or because that what a book said?? I use it on my dogs and livestock. But I also use Ivomec on my dogs. Never had any problems my self. But I farm for a living and not a hobby. So I can't afford to throw away to much money on a vet, cause 99% of the time, if I can't fix her, they can't either. Now, Randall Plaisance and Matt Christjohn are about the only two, I'd trust in. One of the finest men, I ever had a pleasure of knowing passed away not to long ago. Dr. Bob Carson once said the truest words I ever heard on cattle. He told me, "sometimes cows are just gonne die" and if it was easy and you got rich, everybody would do it. So, it's ok if you don't want to say what Dr. You work for. But just remember. Common sense takes a big roll in the vet field. IMO.