AR 10 accuracy???

Anybody have any experience with a "long range" or "precision" AR10? I have a 16" DPMS 308 that I rarely shoot and I have been thinking about buying a different upper for it. Something like a 20 or 22 inch 6.5c or so. The thing I'm wondering is just how accurate can a mil spec AR10 be? Would it be worth the investment?

Upgrade the trigger, add a decent scope, and check accuracy with what you have. You may be surprised.

Definitely change the trigger. Standard AR triggers are terrible.

Oh I know the factory triggers suck and it has a good Vortex scope on it already. That said I'm not complaining with the accuracy of the 16" 308, I just don't particulary care for the short barrel. The balance of the rifle sucks and its god awful loud. Something about it I just don't like and am thinking of changing it up instead of selling it.

The 20” 6.5CM we built is a tack driver. Have you thought of doing a barrel swap?

Yea I thought about that but mine just has the factory plastic A3 hand guard and from what I've seen by the time I buy a barrel, lo pro gas block, bolt carrier for the 6.5c and hand guard I'd be dang close to just buying a complete upper. At that point I see no reason to disassemble the 308 upper. Keep it stuck back for hard times.

I hear ya. I want to say the 6.5 complete upper was a little over $400 from PSA.

Marshmud, what’s that 6.5 weigh?

PSA has a complete 308 upper with a 20” stainless barrel for $399 right now.

11lbs IIRC fully loaded.

I have a Armalite AR10TC that will shoot 1/2 minute

Get a drop in 2 stage. My ARs are sub MiOA

I changed my trigger and it made a world of difference. Where I hunt about 50-60 max to shoot so I sighted in my leupold at 50, shot 3 rounds after adjustments and they were all toughing each other!! This is the DPMS Ar-10 oracle(cheapest they make).

I think this model is the most prolific...I got mine on here from a member and love it....A gen 2-3 PSA upper may not fit the oracle.

Love my Oracle as well only down fall is weight plus I'm going with a better trigger and new glass on top

If I do anything with it it'll definitely get a new trigger. Now y'allve got me to wondering if I can get a replacement complete upper for it being it's a DPMS Oracle. I've read they are a different pattern that most 10s. Only thing I can see me doing with it is maybe putting a 6.5 upper on it and making a bench gun out of it. It's to dang heavy to tote around the fields and I've got much better guns suited for that anyhow.

You ain't never lied mine is one heavy sob

My DPMS 308 is MOA. It would probably be sub MOA with a trigger upgrade and replace the loose nut pulling the trigger.

Yes. I cant possibly touch on all the variables that go into making a precision AR in a post, but here are some very important things to concider.

Use a good quality barrel that is known for quality, like a Bartlien or a Proof Research, in a proper length, and twist rate. Dont go too short or you will lose too much velocity for precision shooting in a particular caliber. I say particular caliber, because velocity needed will vary by caliber and bullet, etc. Go too long and it's too bulky and you get more muzzle whip, which is a factor in the equation. Id let the barrel maker or gunsmith tell you what length and twist is working best for them in the caliber you want order. Most of the velocity data that I have browsed over is done using a 24" barrel. A 20" barrel isnt going to give you the velocity of a 24". Most benchrest shooters use a 26" fyi. Not that you would want one that long on an AR, but just something to keep in the back of your mind. Another factor to consider is the thickness of your barrel. The closer to a bull barrel the better for precision. Obviously you dont want to lug a bull barrel through the woods, so if your hunting with it, then get the heaviest thickness you are willing to deal with. Then get a good trigger. This is as important as the barrel. Trigger tech and timney make some good ones for ARs.

Do those things and you have a good start. Try to add the highest quality components you can. Then do some load development and you will have something closer to a precision gun. Depending on the caliber there may be some factory ammo that performs ok. Most factory ammo doesn't shoot a consistant enough velocity each round to do any precision work.

Some scoff at it, but I’m a big believer in ensuring the barrel extension shoulders and receiver face are squared/trued, on anything where extreme accuracy is desired. The difference is often not in the first few shots or the single, 3-shot group, but in having that 10-shot group stand up, especially once things get warm....any stress will get exposed.