Burris FF3 mounting question.

Does it make a difference where on the rail you mount the sight? Some say as far forward as you can others say as far back as you can. What say Aldeer?

Dr. B

Wherever the receiver is thickest. I’d want mind towards the rear 1/3 of the receiver

Wherever the holes on the receiver are.

Rail is already on the receiver. I’m talking about the sight itself. It sits in those grooves on the rail. Wondering if I should mount it far back or front on the rail.

Dr. B

Toss the rail and get the Marlin 336 mount.

That’s pretty much what it is. It was a scope mount for a Nikon turkey scope I had years ago. The scope added too much weight so I took it off. It has 4 grooves for mounting rings.

Dr. B

I know if they drill and tap the reciever they want to do it as far back as possible. I think Gundoc told me the reciever was thicker steel towards the back. Probably just a personal preference on a rail

I dropped mine off today and the gunsmith said he had to drill toward the back of the receiver because it was thicker. I don’t think it will matter where the sight is because a red dot is a red dot whether it’s on the front or rear of the receiver. I guess you could mount a longer rail and slide it forward if you need to,

I prefer to have them close to me, but it shouldn’t affect performance where you put it. I also would chunk the rail and get the marlin 336 or sumtoy base. This is not my gun, but this is where I have them on my guns.

See page 2: “Picatinny Rail” thread

No, it does not make a difference as far as 'point of aim' 'point of impact', you can set a red dot at an distance (or angle) and as long as you do your part it will hit where it is pointed.

It will however make a difference on 'field of view', the further forward you place it the smaller your field of view will be. For that reason, you will want to place it as far back as feasible.

What Geeb stated. i put the Burris Speed Bead and FF3 on a Stoeger and it mounts back and low where the stock meets the receiver and it is very nice; great cheek weld.

Drilled mine far back as I could due to it be thicker

It’s a personal preference. I know folks that like the meadow creek mounts that go on the vent rib, and I know folks that like the speed bead.

Mine is mounted towards the back of the receiver like the picture in the previous post.

The farther back it's mounted, the more the sight itself disappears. I like to throw the gun up and with both eyes open just see the dot floating and not see the sight itself so much.

Mine is mounted on the vent rib. Don't really have much of a choice on an O/U.

Gundoc did the drill and tap on the gun in the photo, btw. As always, he did a great job.

Hard to beat a sumtoy base.

I bought a Speed Bead for my SBE and then never mounted it. Started hunting with the 20 gauge and don't plan to use the 12 again. But I really liked the idea of being able to get the FF3 dot right over the bead in the sight picture. If the mount ever moved, you should be able to compare it to the bead and tell.

I’ve got the speed bead on my 12. I really like it as it allows me to see my rifle sights co witnessed.

Can someone link the exact marlin 336 mount? I was looking for it the other day because I like how low it sits but don’t want to get the wrong thing so I bought a picatinny rail (but haven’t had gun drilled yet)

If you'll check on the Sumtoy mount I think you'll like it better.
I checked both before going with a Sumtoy which has a radius to fit the top of your receiver better. No edges for briars to hang on.

Google it and call the guy he's in GA.

I did just that. He got back with me quickly. Thank you for the info

Both the Marlin 336 and SumToy are good slimline compact mounts for a red dot, but after talking with SumToy, I liked the fact it has a radius on the bottom to follow the contour of the top of the gun's receiver.
Just my old a_ - opinion though.

Will William build them in a low profile instead of it being as high as the one in the pic?

From a net height perspective, I do think William’s bases are a touch higher than a Marlin 336. However, there is also an optical illusion that it is significantly higher because it wraps over the round contour of the receiver of the gun where a Marlin 336 base is flat. Of the two, I know which one I like better from a nerd perspective. I can remember a grand total of zero scope bases I have owned in my life that dont match the profile of the weapon they are mounting on. Granted these little red dots are super light and dont have the same amount of moment arm as a scope, but even still.....there is a reason the contours match across the optics mounting world. If one is sold on a Marlin 336, at least bed it or have it bedded to create better contact IMHO.

I’m sure it’s a good setup. I’d have to get him to mill it down some for me, though.

I think if he kept his same concept of matching the contour of the specific weapon and also lowered it a touch like you and many others would prefer, he would sell more than he does for sure. He could come up with something that calls up turkeys, aims for you, and kills em on your behalf for $9.99 and I wouldn’t buy it though. Maybe I just have the worst luck in history, but I have dealt with Sumtoy on three different turkey guns in some way now and I have been sorely disappointed on all 3. I’m done with them jokers but that is a topic for another day.

Back to the height issue just for a little fun convo and maybe give some things to think about for those who are shopping. Why do you and others like/desire your reflex sight to be so low? It is illogical to me. I tried it once on a previous turkey gun and dont like it as much as sitting up on top of a Weaver rail. The primary reason folks get away from beads is because they miss turkeys. Most would agree that when you miss with a bead, it is because you didnt get down on the gun enough and shot over the turkey. So the next step chosen by many (including myself) is to basically replicate the situation by making your red dot also be as low as possible (which can be difficult to get down to in a contorted position against a tree off to the right for a right handed shooter.....resulting in misses with a bead obviously). Obviously, having something so high that you cant get a cheek weld in a standard position is dumb, but trying to get your dot as low and vertically close to the position of the bead as possible just dont make a bunch of sense to me (for turkey hunting anyway).

I like my turkey guns with a short lop. This makes shooting a bead though for me, but that’s what I want. I use a red dot to overcome that. I don’t have any problems getting down on a low profile red dot. I just don’t like the looks of high mount, so I wouldn’t buy one. I also had a bad experience with Sumtoy and wouldn’t deal with them again, either.

Basically, I don’t care if it makes sense to anyone else, as long as it works for me and is what I want. Lol

What does Sumtoy charge for his bases?
The only thing I don't like about them from an installer perspective is they never come with the same size screws.
I've seen them with both #6 and #8 screws.
Maybe he sells them for specific guns and folks have just brought them to be retro fitted to something different...I've never order one directly so I dunno.
I have also seen the front screw slot a different length. I did one about a month ago the had .500" min - 1.200" as the max spacing,
I put on 2 last week that had .500" min - 1.400" which will fit the factory Remington 870/1100/11-87 screw spacing

Lol! That’s right! The indian procuring and shooting said weapon is the only one that matters! 😁

Nothing at all you could say about stuff he has built or modified would surprise me. Extremely high probability of wasted time and money. Not worth the gamble. YMMV

He charges 50 for the FF3 base. I think that is fair- plus it is a very slim profile...

I guess first and foremost, its just how I shoot. I like my face down on the stock. My 20's have the reflex up and I feel odd shooting them but I'm used to them now. My 12, which I rarely shoot, has the reflex low enough that the rifle sights are actually co-witnessed. I really like it, but the 20's are so much lighter.

I prefer mine further back as others have mentioned, you need to keep in mind though, the further back the more minute of angle the dot covers. Also, I think there's a 3moa and 8moa sight. So that might help you decide, if you already have the sight.