Recurve nock height

Did a little bare shaft tuning today , left to right was good , but the bare shafts always existed the bow nock high and landed below fletched arrows, I moved the nock point down in small increments to 0 and up again to 3/4 but never could get them to fly straight. The seem to do best at 5/8 landing close to fletched arrows but still nock high, so much as I could see it in flight. Any thoughts?

You say landing close to fletched arrows, at what distance?

A couple things.
You might not get all the nock high out. It's Ok if you don't and you can still group close to fletched arrows at 20 yards or so.

You might be bouncing off the riser. A bumper under your rest material for the arrow to rest on might work wonders. I like that thick 2 sided 3M mounting tape. It's sort of spongy and I stack a couple of pieces about 1/4" wide on top of each other under my rest about even with the deepest part of the grip.

Depending on bow length,split,or 3 under hold and tiller, you might go as much as 1-1/2" above center to get a clean release and not bounce off the riser. It won't hurt to try even higher.

If you're shooting 3 under you may have to go higher, just depends on the archer, finger pressure ect.
I never bare shaft myself. As long as I get good flight with feathers.

I am shooting 3 under . thanks for the help

To echo what Clark said, you may be nocked too low. As with anything traditional, there is no such thing as following the standard. You just have to tweak it until it hits the sweet spot and it varies with every bow you pick up.

Example for 2 of my bows:
Black Widow PMA II 62" - Brace height 8-1/4", nock point 3/4"
Black Widow KBX 58" - Brace height 9", nock point 1"

As you can see there is a big difference between the 2 bows. If anything, I would start your nock at 1" and go from there. Also, since you shoot 3 under, you may be getting a lazy 3rd finger that is contributing to your shot. That is another reason to move your nock point higher. The important thing to remember is - as I said - there is no set standard for these bows.

Did better today, I am sure it is my realse or something

Whenever you bareshaft,don't change anything until you fire at least 20 shots and just sort of take the average of your data. Basically,anyone can only bareshaft as well as they can shoot,and anybody makes some mistakes.

That's true, day one nock extremely high. the next day it was hit and miss . Today I settled on 3/4 and it was flying great . Who knows what tomorrow will bring lol

A too high elbow can cause you to torque the string by applying more pressure downward with your bottom finger. This will cause a bounce off the riser and possible give you a false reading.

Same thing can happen but inversely with more pressure on the top finger.

Do you use a tab? I get my best 3 under release with a cordovan leather tab.For me it's a lot easier to get a clean release with a tab. With a glove,it's easy to drag one finger more than the others.

I used a glove for years but switched to a tab a couple years ago.
Either one will work but I agree...the tab gives me a smooth release.

Been using a glove but have a tab to try

It might seem awkward at first but give it a while and a glove will seem awkward.

I second or third or what ever on the tab. I tend to release more consistently with a tab than a glove or just the three finger tip glove. With a split tab I shot one above and two below because I got a more consistent anchor point in the corner of my lip.
I have not shot a lot of traditional in many years. I seem to remember that bare arrows never shot the same as fletched arrows. for one thing the fletching will hit the arrow rest in the riser and get a small bump and your POIr(point of impact) will change with fletching material. I always shot long turkey feathers on cedar arrows.
Another variable to check is the brace height.
Like I said I may be all wet on this because I have not shot traditional in a long time, but this is the old man's recollections.

I like the higher end of the brace height because it quietens the bow, but thats just me.
When my son went to 3 under he has to use a lot hugher brace height than I do, everybodys different.
I've tried a lot of different tabs but I like the Neet Monster tab.

used a glove for 30 years, then switched to a tab, never going back.

I use a Cartel cordovan with the thumb ledge removed, but I like a Bateman too.I'm not too picky as long as it's cordovan leather.

speaking of brace height, the way we used to do it was to put our fist in the bow on the riser and stick up our thumb. If the string touched the top of the thumb brace height was about right.

I could never do any good bareshafting my longbows. Very seldom could I get them to do the same thing twice. I always wrote it off to non-standardized finger release... meaning that shooting with gloved or tabbed fingers was never as crisp and repeatable as a mechanical release.

Echoing TGBow... I've just tuned the feathered shafts looking for good, consistent flight between field points and broadheads. When arrow flight was good, and the POI was the same with both type heads, I called it good and went hunting.

I don’t bare shaft tune. I have in the past but don’t now. I have my woods down to a science with weight and straightening so I just don’t utilize it anymore. My thought on it is, if you’re not wanting to bare shaft tune and are hitting where you want and confident in your shot just go with it.

I don’t know, this has kinda gotten me in the mood to bare shaft tune. Next time I make some arrows I may do it.