What's the real difference between a $30 wrist release and a $100 wrist release? This isn't a "companies are screwing us over" post. I'm genuinely curious.
I got a $20-30 off brand release at the sporting goods store in college trying to save money. It would open up from time to time when I drew back. Not fun. I haven't bought a release in 7-8 years. I shoot Scott's and I think I spent $60-65 on mine. I was at the field and stream store a few days ago and saw them for like $100. Freaking ridiculous.
What's the real difference between a $30 wrist release and a $100 wrist release? This isn't a "companies are screwing us over" post. I'm genuinely curious.
Compare the cheap vs a Carters release. There is none. Long release trigger travel vs a crisp quick travel. You'll start thinking about the release on a cheap travel. The arrow will be gone before you think too much on a good release.
It's just like any other hunting accessory. Higher price doesn't always mean better, but in most cases it does. The $100 release will be better made, function better and be more reliable. The last thing you want going through your head as you draw during that moment of truth is whether or not your release is going to function properly.
I like all the Scott releases especially the little goose. I bought a tru ball bandit on sale for 30$ thinking they would all be about the same but I took it back as soon as I put it on my wrist. It wasn't for me. Not comfortable and I didn't like the trigger. Spent the extra 25$ and got something that felt comfortable for me and could adjust to my liking.
They've already nailed it. Spend the extra money and buy a Scott. Never shot a Carter, but I'm sure they're in the same class as Scott. I've been through the fails of cheaper ones. Not fun when your drawing and it lets go. Knuckles to the nose a couple of times does not feel good.
I had always shot Scott; but tried a Carter RX1. No regrets on that purchase. You should try one; but make sure you have $140 in your pocket if you do.
Think about the difference between a stock rifle trigger and a timney trigger. One has travel, rough spots, and has a higher pull weight. The other is smooth, crisp, and light. Not to mention some of the really cheap ones can absolutely fail.
I haven't noticed any difference between a cheaper and expensive release. I draw with my finger behind the trigger pressing against it, so I've never had an issue with one firing before I wanted it to.
I haven't noticed any difference between a cheaper and expensive release. I draw with my finger behind the trigger pressing against it, so I've never had an issue with one firing before I wanted it to.
Also how I draw. I was looking at different models, but it's pretty useless if I'm not testing them out on my actual bow I assume.
I haven't noticed any difference between a cheaper and expensive release. I draw with my finger behind the trigger pressing against it, so I've never had an issue with one firing before I wanted it to.
Also how I draw. I was looking at different models, but it's pretty useless if I'm not testing them out on my actual bow I assume.
Probably so, if you can. The best thing to do is to buy the one that has the most features that you want.
I haven't noticed any difference between a cheaper and expensive release. I draw with my finger behind the trigger pressing against it, so I've never had an issue with one firing before I wanted it to.
I draw the same way. I had a TruBall or TrueFire, can't remember, that was made especially for D loops. After 2-3 years use, it started to fail.
I haven't noticed any difference between a cheaper and expensive release. I draw with my finger behind the trigger pressing against it, so I've never had an issue with one firing before I wanted it to.
I draw the same way. I had a TruBall or TrueFire, can't remember, that was made especially for D loops. After 2-3 years use, it started to fail.
I used the same release for nearly 14 years, before I upgraded to my current one with no issues. I guess it's possible to get a lemon every now and then.
I have a old Scott, I got it like in 92ish. Still working fine, But at the time I bought it I thought it was to expensive for a release. Some times the more expensive equipment last longer. I think you should get what ever you have the most confidence in. Strong confidence in your equipment will benefit more than the cost of it.