Should I be hearing my arrows?

Got a new bow, it's faster than my old one (but surely not THAT much faster), and I can hear my arrows as they fly to the target. Don't recall ever noticing that with my old bow.

Shooting Maxima Red 350's w/ Blazers. Shot two different broadheads AND a field point, it's the arrows, not the heads. Is this normal?

I have never been able to hear my arrows while shooting that I can recall.

No

Any rips or tears in your vanes?


God Bless,
David B.

I tried some of them blazers with the black tip on them several years ago and I could here them.but normally no unless one vane is messed up.

I don't do much compound stuff but I would think that being out of tune could cause the noise. The more out of tune one is the harder the fletching works to stabilize flight.

You really need to address this or you'll see lots of jumping the string. I shoot blazers and they make no noise.

You may be underspined. A lot of guys get newer faster bows and forget to get stiffer arrows.

I only hear mine when there is a damaged vane or wrap.

I literally just bought them yesterday, brand new Carbon Express Maxima Red 350's. Bow is only set on 63#. I can't imagine they're underspined... everything should be perfect. Heck if I know.

Talk to Shaw about it. I bet he can figure it out. At least you know its not the broadhead if it makes noise with field point. its a shame you don't have some different arrows to try. Merry Christmas

Spine should be OK. Bow just needs to be tuned. If it's a duel cam the timing may be off.

What bow are you shooting?

Can you bareshaft tune compounds? That's the only way to tell with a stick bow.

Have it paper tuned and see if that helps.

What arrows were you shooting with your old bow?
Have you shot your old arrows in the new bow?
Have you shot the new arrows in the old bow?

God Bless,
David B.

Sure can.

Then besides the obvious of damaged fletching,that's where I would start.

Sorry guys, was away from technology the past couple of days! LOL

It's a Mathews ZXT / Ultra HDX rest.

So explain "tuning" to me. I've heard the term all my life, but what does that actually mean? I always thought it meant to make sure the blades of your head line up with the fletchings. What do you mean by tuning the BOW? (or am I misunderstanding that?)

I will say this... I "think" I can see the arrow wobbling when I shoot. Does that mean my rest is out of line with my string or something?...maybe making the arrow leave the bow at an angle?

Interestingly, I'm very accurate with it, even out to 60 yards. It shoots consistently accurate, but it's just that "wind" noise from the arrow in flight.

Don't worry about lining up your vanes with the blades of your broad head. IMO that makes no difference.

Tuning basically means doing everything you can to your bow so that the arrow wil fly true, no wobble. Assuming the cam is timed properly; set your rest even with the berger hole. Set your arrow to be level or slightly nock high. Do this by moving your d loop up or down. Next set your center shot to about 13/16. That will get you pretty close. Next you can paper tune. Or you can go straight to walk back tune. There is lots of info on Internet on how to do this. That a good place to get started.

Is the rest on there tightly? Even if it on right it may be, "off" (Not Level or not square). Take it to a pro shop and they can figure the issue in less that 5 minutes.

What shaw is refering to is shooting an arrow through paper to make sure the center shot is properly aligned. Meaning arrow rest alignment. If fletching hole in the paper is left or right of where the tip entered youll need to move arrow rest left or right. Same goes for up and down. The qad rests have timing marks on the housing. At full draw those marks must line up or the rest wont drop properly. Also the bows cam has a timing hole on it. The string should be in the middle of this hole if not youll have to have someone twist or untwist the bus cable. This requires a bowpress and not for the novice to attempt. Sounds like you have a tuning problem and I would do as shaw suggested. Hope this helps.

These guys are talking about tuning your bow to the arrow,but you can also tune your arrow to the bow. An arrow that is too weak will leave the bow with the nock farther left than optimal and one that is too stiff,farther right than optimal.

All arrows will flex and recover at release but too much or too little flex will cause your fletching to drag more wind to recover.

Length of arrow and tip weight will also effect how much the arrow flexes.

To tune a bow is to align the bow and set the spine of the arrow so that you get optimal flex and optimal recovery. A well tuned arrow will penetrate much better because it doesn't expend it's energy recovering and it isn't still in recovery when it strikes the target.

I shoot a trad bow and a tuned bow will shoot bareshafts to the same point of impact as fletched shafts at 40 yards if you have good form and release. A tuned arrow will punch a neat hole through a clay target where one that is out of tune will bust the clay target. I've seen well tuned arrows penetrate at least 30% deeper in a target than poorly tuned ones.